Basement framing: floating walls
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Basement framing: floating walls
Any fellow DIYers from CO? I am looking at finishing my basement and have started framing.
This thread provided me with some valuable info http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ba...-basement.html
I am looking for some guidance from fellow members who went through the process. For most part I plan to do the framing and electrical myself and then get the contractors to do insulation, drywall and plumbing.
Can I use 3/4" OSB as fireblock on top (between the frame and joists, as shown here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqhH...ature=youtu.be)
Any pointers on how to frame doors?
Any help is very much appreciated.
This thread provided me with some valuable info http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ba...-basement.html
I am looking for some guidance from fellow members who went through the process. For most part I plan to do the framing and electrical myself and then get the contractors to do insulation, drywall and plumbing.
Can I use 3/4" OSB as fireblock on top (between the frame and joists, as shown here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqhH...ature=youtu.be)
Any pointers on how to frame doors?
Any help is very much appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forums! I would think 3/4 OSB would be a little overkill as 1/2 should suffice.The main place they use it is where there is a vast difference between your stud wall and any cavity behind it. Be sure to use fire rated foam and caulk.
Installing your doors make sure you use finish nails and only in the upper portion of the stud opening. The nails will give somewhat should there be a monumental shifting of the ground below it. Be sure to leave 1 1/2 to 2" of head space above the door to the header. Some inspectors will require you to leave 1 1/2" spacing from finished floor to the bottom of the door trim. I think it would look ugly. Check on that locally.
Installing your doors make sure you use finish nails and only in the upper portion of the stud opening. The nails will give somewhat should there be a monumental shifting of the ground below it. Be sure to leave 1 1/2 to 2" of head space above the door to the header. Some inspectors will require you to leave 1 1/2" spacing from finished floor to the bottom of the door trim. I think it would look ugly. Check on that locally.
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Thanks Chandler, I was just going by the Douglas County code, didnt want to take chances with inspections. I have 3/4" OSB left over and wanted to recycle them instead of getting new. The code says 23/32 and 3/4" is pretty close. I know its an overkill but would it be an issue with the inspectors?
Fire Blocking/Draft Stopping Material
Fire blocking shall consist of one of the materials listed below. The integrity of all fire blocking shall be maintained.
· 2x lumber (2x4, 2x6, etc.)
· Two thicknesses of 1x lumber (1x4, 1x6, etc.) with staggered joints
· One thickness of 23/32” of plywood or OSB with joints backed with the same material.
· One thickness of ¾” particleboard with joints backed with the same material.
· ½” gypsum board.
· ¼” cement based millboard.
· Polyurethane foam or unfaced Insulation
Fire Blocking/Draft Stopping Material
Fire blocking shall consist of one of the materials listed below. The integrity of all fire blocking shall be maintained.
· 2x lumber (2x4, 2x6, etc.)
· Two thicknesses of 1x lumber (1x4, 1x6, etc.) with staggered joints
· One thickness of 23/32” of plywood or OSB with joints backed with the same material.
· One thickness of ¾” particleboard with joints backed with the same material.
· ½” gypsum board.
· ¼” cement based millboard.
· Polyurethane foam or unfaced Insulation