how to build floating wall under 6 inch wood support beam
#1
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how to build floating wall under 6 inch wood support beam
I am finishing my basement and want to put a wall under my 6 inch support beam to put a bedroom in the corner. Right now my plan is to build two walls that will equal 6 inches, using two metal bottom plates. Is this correct?
#2
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Welcome to the forums.
Can you post a few pictures?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Can you post a few pictures?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#3
two walls that equal 6" wide??
Not sure if that is your comment but you really only need a regular 2x4 wall.
What are your plans for ceiling?
Not sure if that is your comment but you really only need a regular 2x4 wall.
What are your plans for ceiling?
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yes 2 walls, and two bottom plates, that = 6 inches wide when both bult, then i would take drywall all the way up to the ceiling and it would be flush with the support beams, planning on drywalling ceiling too.
#5
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I don't understand what you are attempting. Are you building a wall that's 6" thick so it's flush with your 6" wide beam?
One option is to not make your wall as thick as your beam. You can use standard 3 1/2" wide studs and trim out where your beam is wider at the top. Or you can offset your curtain/floating wall so one side is flush with your beam.
If you want the wall to be 6" thick you can do it several ways. You mentioned steel. 2 1/2" and 6" are standard web sizes you could use but both sizes are a bit of an oddball so you'll likely have to special order the steel. With the 2 1/2" you could build two complete walls with a gap between to get your 6" thickness. Or, you can get steel with a 6" web so you only have to build one wall.
One option is to not make your wall as thick as your beam. You can use standard 3 1/2" wide studs and trim out where your beam is wider at the top. Or you can offset your curtain/floating wall so one side is flush with your beam.
If you want the wall to be 6" thick you can do it several ways. You mentioned steel. 2 1/2" and 6" are standard web sizes you could use but both sizes are a bit of an oddball so you'll likely have to special order the steel. With the 2 1/2" you could build two complete walls with a gap between to get your 6" thickness. Or, you can get steel with a 6" web so you only have to build one wall.
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yes: 6 inch wide wall so it is flush with the beam, i thought asthetically this would look best. I was curious what others thought about this plan and that there wasn't something really stupid about it, i.e., something against code about building 2 walls that have a small gap in the middle of them (maybe something about fireproofing code).
Good to hear you mention 6 inch bottom plates - I did a quick search and the widest could find was 3.5 inches. I will explore further.
Thanks everyone for the input. It also seems that a standard wall that isn't flush with the beam wouldn't be out of the question. The offset idea so one side is flush is interesting, as long as I could cover the support beam with that too.
It sounds like consensus is to build a smaller wall that isn't flush with the beam and working around that. Thank you.
Good to hear you mention 6 inch bottom plates - I did a quick search and the widest could find was 3.5 inches. I will explore further.
Thanks everyone for the input. It also seems that a standard wall that isn't flush with the beam wouldn't be out of the question. The offset idea so one side is flush is interesting, as long as I could cover the support beam with that too.
It sounds like consensus is to build a smaller wall that isn't flush with the beam and working around that. Thank you.
#7
If you really want a 6" wide wall to enclose your beam, just use 2x6's which are 5 1/2" wide and flush up the framing on one side then use 1/2" plywood furring strip to bring it out flush on the other.
#8
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X provided some of the relevant math, the other would be that two 2x4" walls abutting each other (no space in between) with drywall only on the outside would be 8" thick, not 6".
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I figured out what I am going to do:
Get the 2x6 floor plate and offset it so it is flush with the left side of the support beam. I will not need the 1/2 inch furring strip because my ventilation is on the other side of the support beam and I will build a soffit around that and just include the support beam and ventilation inside that same area. Would anyone do that differently or does that sound optimal?
Thanks for all the ideas.
Great first experience on the forum.
Get the 2x6 floor plate and offset it so it is flush with the left side of the support beam. I will not need the 1/2 inch furring strip because my ventilation is on the other side of the support beam and I will build a soffit around that and just include the support beam and ventilation inside that same area. Would anyone do that differently or does that sound optimal?
Thanks for all the ideas.
Great first experience on the forum.
#10
Sounds like a great idea to me.
You will have your left wall flat and the soffit will hide the other side of the beam.
I would add blocking between the joists on the left side in order to have a nailer for the ceiling drywall.
You will have your left wall flat and the soffit will hide the other side of the beam.
I would add blocking between the joists on the left side in order to have a nailer for the ceiling drywall.
#12
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Since you are going with wood instead of steel make sure you use pressure treated wood for the bottom plate. The moisture in concrete can/will rot untreated lumber.