Pressure reducing valve

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-28-16, 10:23 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Pressure reducing valve

The pressure reducing valve above my boiler does not work. I have to replace it. i look online and saw at amazon almost the exact model with the exception of one label.
My existing:
Bell and Gossett
D39, Part # 110192 Model # FB-38, max pressure 125 psi, max temp 225 F, set at 12 #.
Amazon:
M50, everything else is the same as above. Can i use the one at amazon?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-28-16, 11:18 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 36 Votes on 28 Posts
Yes. You may need to do some modifications to the existing plumbing concerning pipe sizes, lengths and threads. The only critical thing about the pressure reducing valve is the output pressure and 12 psi pre-set is normal.
 
  #3  
Old 10-29-16, 08:51 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you. Another question that i have. I replaced an air valve that was leaking recently. This is on a pipe of the heating system. I have a hot water heating system and baseboard heaters. I have 3 zones (basement, 1st and 2nd fl). After replacing the valve, I bled the system. I get heat on my basement, part of 1st floor and part of 2nd fl. On the first floor, the baseboard get hot with the exception of one wall. This baseboard is a continuation of the rest of the baseboard heating system. Obviously, there is still air in the system. How do i remove it? i went to each baseboard and purge air and still the radiator is cold. Does the pressure reducing valve ( defective) plays a role in this?
 
  #4  
Old 10-29-16, 11:59 AM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 36 Votes on 28 Posts
I would have to know far more about your system to be able to offer any advice. How a system is piped is probably the most important and can be a significant factor in how to remove the air. Often the installer will not install air vents where they need to be or on occasion will install vents where they should NOT be. If you have a "diverter tee" (Bell & Gossett Monoflo fittings) system they can often be quite difficult to remove the air. Most systems installed in the last twenty years or so will have "purge stations" and will use a procedure called "power purging" to remove the majority of the air with the remaining removed by the air elimination device. Further, a system with leaks will often have continuing air problems as the air enters in a dissolved state with the make-up water.

If you want to post a couple of dozen (or more) pictures of your system I and the other members can look them over and make suggestions. There are several highly talented members with expertise in this field that post regularly and if one of them makes the same suggestion that I would I generally do not post.

Pictures need to be IN FOCUS AND WELL LIT to be of any use. There needs to be a large number taken from far enough back and from different angles to see how the various parts are connected. In most cases close up pictures are NOT required but if they are we will ask for additional pictures. High definition pictures hosted on a photo hosting site such as imgur or photobucket with the public URLs posted here are preferred over hosting them directly on the forum. This is especially true of cell phone pictures that will often not post at all (because of their size) or will post sideways. Do NOT use tinypic for hosting as the forum software rejects their URLs.
 
  #5  
Old 11-20-16, 09:19 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  Image 1.jpg
Views: 234
Size:  44.7 KBI check the pressure and it's stays as 12 psi but i still do not get heat on the second floor. How would i know if the reducing valve is faulty? What are the steps on purging air from the system from the boiler area instead of going to each individual radiator? What is the position of the domestic water supply valve, always open or always close when the heat is on. Attached is a diagram of my heating layout and photos of my system.Name:  Isometric.jpg
Views: 231
Size:  24.7 KB
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: