Baisi B10 boiler lock out issue

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Old 03-19-18, 05:21 PM
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Angry Baisi B10 boiler lock out issue

I'm having this reoccurring issue with my furnace that I'd like some help trouble shooting.

The setup:
Was installed when the house was built in 2001
Carlin EZ-1 burner
Baisi B-10 boiler
Control unit is a Honeywell R7184A
Nozzle size unknown. Unit has a oil control valve with a 15 second delay.
It was serviced about 2 months ago which per the tech included a fire box cleaning as well as a new nozzle and filter change"
275 horizontal tank is about 20 ft away, but the line goes up to the ceiling and then drops back down to the burner.
Boiler inlet/exhaust is a pipe in pipe setup with a barometric damper on the inlet side.

The boiler has been randomly locking out on me and has for the past several winters, but now its a daily event when I come home its in lockout. When I do a hard reset its fine and works through when I leave for work the next day. I even hear it come on when I shower. When I come home from work that day, its back in lockout. I have the house go cold during the day and then stay warm when I get home and all through the night. When home during the weekends when the house stays warm it doesn't lock out. I tested the cad cell with a ohm meter, in dark its ~16k ohms, when subject to a bright light it goes down to 10-20 ohms. Sometimes locking the barometric damper full open helps it stay lit, other times it doesn't

I gave up on calling a technician this time and I myself I installed a Tigerloop in hopes I was just getting air in the lines from having to suck uphill, that apparently did not work. I also replaced the pump strainer while I was in there. I installed pressure gauge after the pump and it hits ~160 psi almost the instant the burner starts and holds it.

From the symptoms it sounds like fuel, but between the Tigerloop, solid fuel pressure, and recent cleaning I don't understand what else could be effecting fuel.

Any other diagnostic advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-19-18, 05:25 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Thread re-titled and moved to the boiler forum.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 03-19-18 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 03-19-18, 05:50 PM
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t,
There are two reasons an oil burner generally locks out. An oil problem or an ignition problem.

The oil problem is usually consistent because you either have it or you don't. If it was an air problem you would have to bleed the pump before it would light again and since you didn't mention it I'm guessing you didn't so that would eliminate air with a 1 pipe system. You seem to have covered all the bases with the oil.

Your ignition on the other hand can be sporadic. You have your transformer that can be very erratic and causing a delay or not lighting at all and then suddenly working again. You also have your electrodes that wear out or could be misaligned.

You said you cad cell reading was 10-20 ohms in the light. Did you mean 200. You are looking for below 800 and around 200 is considered perfect. 10-20 you might want to replace it and see what you get.

What you can do is get a 1500 ohm resister. Remove your wires from FF and install one end of the resister to F, start the burner and attach the other end to F to keep the burner running and then put your meter leads on to your yellow wire leads. This will test your wire also. Set your meter to 2000 ohm setting.

When you reset the burner do you get a puff back or oil smell. That is unburned oil and evidence of a delayed or no ignition.

Hope this helps a little.
 

Last edited by spott; 03-19-18 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 03-29-18, 06:32 PM
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I do not get a puff back, even when starting it with the npt plug out to watch the flame.

Thank you, I'll check that. I also noticed per the manual the nozzle should be a .65x70 and the air inlet should be set to .65. I haven't checked the nozzle, but there is an empty nozzle container left by the technician that I has .65x70 on it however the air inlet is set to 1.00. maybe it's getting too much air?


O​​​n a side note, should the high pressure side of the fuel pump be pretty steady? The needle vibrates a good bit maybe +/-5 psi and I swear the fuel pump "sounds noisy". I'm wondering if I fixed one air leak and created another when I installed the tiger loop.
 
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Old 03-29-18, 07:01 PM
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It is possible that if there is too much air it could blow out the spark. The needle should be fairly steady but a little jumping shouldn't be a problem. I would be more concerned with the noisy pump. Possibly pump screen getting clogged if you have one, could be air leak.

You can for leaks or loose fittings or wearing gears on pump with vacuum gauge.

What oil pressure are you running.

Are pics possible of burner and oil line.
 
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Old 03-29-18, 11:46 PM
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I turned the air down to .65 to see what it will do. I can't meaure combustion so I'm just checking to see if it was blowing out the flame. When I added the tiger loop I took the pump apart to clean it and replace the strainer. As you can see the high pressure gauge I put on weeps a little bit, I need to get a longer nipple so I have room to tighten the threads more. Since that's on the pump discharge and it's maintaining 160+ psi I wouldn't think that could be part of the air leak right?

Here are some pictures.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 03-30-18, 08:24 AM
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Reason for lockout and diagnostics would be easier here if burner had modern primary control with LCD digital display that showed status and history.

A unit with display is Honeyell R7284U for $65 is a best buy, universal and fits most burners. Carlin 70200S for $68 is similar. The basic Beckett-GeniSys 7505 only has 3 leds, not LCD display which must be bought separately for total of $150+

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...ic-Oil-Primary (check out manual .pdf)

Literature: https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyho...s/R7284Bro.pdf
 
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Old 03-30-18, 04:41 PM
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Any weeping of oil will cause air leak and should be fixed. Below are the specs for your boiler if that's the one you have. Your pump pressure is supposed to be 150psi which is maximum for your pump. Why was it adjusted to over 160psi. You may want to lower it back to 150psi.

Just a thought. Did you insert the bypass plug into the return line when you installed the T.L.

Below are the specs and settings they are looking for, for your boiler/burner combo and the specs for the pump.

Biasi-QHT B10/4
Manufacturer:
Biasi-QHT
Appliance Series:
B10
Appliance Model:
B10/4
Burner Model:
EZ-1HP
Air Tube:
5" EZ-1
OEM Air Tube #:
97847
Insertion Depth:
3
GPH:
0.65
Nozzle Type:
70A
Nozzle Mfr:
Delavan
Pump PSI:
150
Air Shutter:
Blank
Head Position:
0.60/0.65
Air Setting:
0.65


MODEL A-7000 z SINGLE-STAGE FUEL UNITS ySingle-pipe installations to 6” hg. vacuum yTwo-pipe installations to 12” hg. vacuum yLift or gravity feed applications with 10 psi maximum inlet/return pressure yChoice of 1725, 2850, 3450 rpm ySuitable for no. 2, no. 1 fuel oil, or kerosene yMounting in any position yFactory-set at 100 psi yAdjustable range 100-150 psi at 3450 rpm, 100-135 psi at 1725 rpm. Models available to 200 and 300 psi.
 
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Old 04-10-18, 01:50 PM
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Those were the same specs I found too. Looks like originally my problem was the fuel pump sucking air due to having to pull uphill. I solved the problem with the tigerloop, but at that same time I had the boiler cleaned. The tech than cleaned it adjusted the air flow way too high so it was blowing out the flame. Since I brought the airflow back down, it's been running like a champ. I either need to buy a combustion analyzer or find a different company to serviceo it since I just did a coarse adjustment.

Thanks again for the help is troubleshooting.
 
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