Oil hot water heater fires up but water never gets past luke-warm

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Old 04-11-18, 01:13 PM
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Oil hot water heater fires up but water never gets past luke-warm

I live in CT and have a Bock 32e Oil Hot Water Heater.

Yesterday my wife noticed a lack of hot water. I checked the heater and it does fire up okay (checked the oil line and there don't appear to be any blockages).

But the heater almost feels like its working part-time. Several times I heard the hot water 'spool up' (for lack of a better description) but it didn't fire up. Other times, it does kick on (or if I manually start it). Is it possible that its the ignitor? When it goes, does it pretty much just stop working entirely or does it start intermittently working? Is it possible that there is some kind of relay issue (The heater is set to 130 degrees)?
 
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Old 04-11-18, 02:25 PM
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I would normally move this thread to water heaters but most of the oil guys are in this forum.

Since you have an oil burner.... if there was an ignition problem the burner would shut down on fault and need to manually be reset.... usually by pushing a reset button. If the burner isn't running long enough to heat the water then there is a problem with the aquastat.

I'll need to locate a manual for your heater.
 
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Old 04-11-18, 04:25 PM
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Thanks. I tried looking up the manual online but there wasn't much more on the aquastat:
http://www.bockwaterheaters.com/Port..._IOM_rev10.pdf

I did manually reset the hot water heater and called for hot water and this time it seems to be staying on (for 10-15 mins) before I turned it off. So it is working, just not automatically all the time as it should be.
 
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Old 04-11-18, 06:55 PM
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So your having to reset the red button on the burner?
 
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Old 04-11-18, 07:40 PM
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The problem with manuals for oil burning products is they are just representative of the series. Many different types of burners and controls can be used.

We need to determine if it's a control problem or a burner problem.
Yours shows the Carlin EZ Temp. Is this what you have ?
Is this what you are resetting ?
90000A, B & C Dual Limit Temperature Control/Carlin Combustion Technology
 
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Old 04-11-18, 09:49 PM
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I don't think so. Attached is a pic of the aquastat & the ignitor / manual reset.

As I type this response, my hot water feels like it is the right temperature. But the fact that I have had to manually reset it a couple times still indicates that I likely need to service something soon. Also wondering if it could be the sensor / gun assembly which could be causing an issue.
 
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Old 04-11-18, 10:15 PM
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Ok... yours uses a basic mechanical aquastat.
Since the reset button is on the burner.... that's where the problem lies.

Possible problems. May be time for servicing.
1) dirty oil filter.
2) clogged nozzle.
3) worn/out of alignment electrodes.
4) HV igniter failing.
 
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Old 04-12-18, 06:14 AM
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When was the last time this unit was cleaned and serviced? As in the combustion chamber was cleaned, oil filters changed, nozzle replaced, and pump strainer checked?
 
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Old 04-12-18, 01:41 PM
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Apparently it wasn't serviced this year (there was a mix up and I just found out that the oil company only ended up doing the boiler).

A tech did come by today and mentioned that the water heater was getting voltage (~32 volts) even after all power was shut off, so he thinks its possible there may be some sort of electrical issue which may be causing the switch to cut out occasionally. I'm no expert so I don't really know how plausible or not that is, but it might make sense to have an electrician come by and check it out at this point.
 
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Old 04-13-18, 01:02 PM
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Any ideas on a part name/number for the reset unit (not the ignitor)? After checking the voltage, the current from the service switch seems okay but the current going to/from the reset unit is inconsistent. I found that the hot water heater would go on and off just from tapping or slightly moving the unit.

Again, the system is a Bock 32E.

Thanks.
 
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Old 04-13-18, 06:03 PM
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That’s the primary control.
May be loose wires.
 
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Old 04-13-18, 09:42 PM
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Thanks. Any suggestions on a replacement? The following looks to be compatible (I have a Carlin 48245, NOT the 48245S):

https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Cont...ing-45-Seconds

I re-checked all the connections and they seemed fine. it was just the wire coming from the primary control which had a poor signal. It seems like the best lead, and since the replacement is pretty cheap, seems like it may be worthwhile to try giving that a shot.
 
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