Boiler question: replaced circulator


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Old 02-02-19, 05:07 PM
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Boiler question: replaced circulator

So my friend had no heat. At first I thought it was the thermostat since it's 100 year old Mercury one. I didn't jumper test it I just swapped it because it needs to be anyway. When that didn't work I went to the furnace and found that the circulator pump was shot. The capacitor inside has burned out (side not can a taco capacitor be replaced?). I swapped the circulator, purged everything and checked pressure. It seemed like everything was great until of course I got home and he said it stopped working. I knew instantly I installed the circulator backwards. I was rushing a bit and just threw it in like the old one and didn't realize the design was different and the electrical box was now supposed to be on the bottom, not top. I went back the next day and but called him in the morning to ask him to shut it down to keep anything from breaking. I went back and flipped it. Boom circulating again and the apartment has been heating since. Problem is it's heating very slow. It was just near 40 when I flipped it a d it's been almost two days and it just hit the 65 mark. He has it set to 68. I said to maybe increase to 70 and see if the new digital therm is off a couple degrees.
Big question is do you think the night it was flipped could have severely damaged anything?

I know from a dead cold start after a couple days of no heat and the temps here now (-15) wind chill and the fact the house is from like 1860 it's prob a degree an hour roughly but if I go back is there anything else I can check.

The circulator felt like it was running Thurs night fine but it does feel really hot. Relief valve isn't popping. I could purge it more as there is only one coin vent on the air scoop and nothing on the baseboards to bleed. I should install a couple but I can't risk leaving them with no heat again


Thanks a ton!
 
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Old 02-02-19, 06:30 PM
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t,
First off there should not be a coin vent on the air scoop but an automatic vent with the cap kept loose to remove air properly.

Next, if you have a taco 007 that part that is hot is the canister that actually has system water in it so it will be the temp of whatever the water is. It is called a wet rotor pump and is not like a regular motor you're used to.

By running the pump backwards if it wasn't shut down you ran it against itself so to speak because with a pump you most likely had a flocheck in the supply that only allows the water to go one way so you could have done some damage to the pump but considering the temp is climbing and the baseboards are getting hot I would guess it's at least running. What is your pressure also and what type of emitters do you have.

You can check the water temp at the emitters to see if it's hot and see if the boiler is reaching high temp periodically and cycling as it should. If all those things are happening my suspicion is everything is working.

If you suspect the stat just remove it and jump the wires to see if it makes a difference.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 02-03-19, 08:17 AM
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I usually just call all the small heating vents coin vent interchangeably. It's just the small screw in vent.
Yup the 007. I know that's the water chamber but it's REALLY hot, like burns to the touch. Just concerned me. Never felt one hot like that BUT it's weird on This boiler the circulator connects right on the boiler to a built in flange to the cast iron slabs. I've never seen one like that and it worried me terribly one of the built in bolts would snap. I figure maybe that's why it's so much hotter than normal. I should maybe pipe it away with another flange in the future.
in the end I guess the apartment was 40degs so to try and jump almost 30 is a lot to ask. I spoke with him last night and he said it's still SLOWLY climbing. The fins are still getting hot. It's warming up this week so I'm sure that will help
 

Last edited by tevil; 02-03-19 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 02-03-19, 01:43 PM
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If you have an extrol tank with a rubber bladder for expansion you should have an auto vent with the cap kept loose as pictured below.

If you have a conventional steel compression tank you should Not have any vents at all. No coin vents under any circumstances.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-Air...y-Vents-305000

The canister shouldn't be any hotter than the water returning if it's on the return line. If it is excessively hot there could be a problem.
 
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Old 02-07-19, 06:17 AM
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what kind of problem should I be looking for?
 
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Old 02-07-19, 11:59 AM
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In regards to what. Are you saying it's still running but slow to heat. Has this been a problem before or just since you changed the pump. If so pics would be helpful if possible.
 
 

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