Multiple issues BUT biggest is Air in heating system


  #1  
Old 02-08-23, 10:36 AM
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Multiple issues BUT biggest is Air in heating system

Hi all,
Been awhile since I have had to do anything besides cleaner boiler, change burner nozzle/filter.
Expansion tank failed, Auto vent leaked. Zone2 Circ Pump weak, bad or ground floor zone air locked?
3 zones. Zone 1 Indirect Hot Water Tank, Zone 2 ground floor baseboards and Zone 3 upstairs baseboards.
Changed expansion tank and auto air vent. Zone 3 good heat but gurgling. Zone 2 sounds like a bad bearing or something clogged, very poor flow, beginning of line, first baseboard heats up and eventfully AFTER like 15-20 minutes the return line goes from cold to not cold, BUT never gets warm, hot. Flow direction is down from pumps.
New circ-pump has arrived in case zone 2 needs a pump. Also got two new circ-pump check valves.
during test when I had just zone 2 open, running, IF I opened zone 3 line noise changed . Check valve leaking? IDK.
I need to try again. Cooling of boiler now. Believe Zone1 is fine. runs quiet. So Zone2 first.
Steps? Close all valves above, below circ-pumps and the ones high up on the return lines.
Open return line2 valve. Open inlet feed, watching boiler pressure , keeping it below 28 relief valve.
Open spigot above pump . Let water run. Seems I have to turn feed on/off to keep it from hitting 30lb relief valve. This is not working! LOL
#$&@#$!@#$
Tks for any help..... Pete







 

Last edited by PJmax; 02-09-23 at 02:27 PM. Reason: resized pics
  #2  
Old 02-08-23, 12:14 PM
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OK.
Upstairs Zone3 purged. Lots of bubbles ranging in size from BB to a pea and a few big gurgling bubbles in first couple of minutes.
BUT Zone2 some thing is not good. Appears to be a obstruction in the line. Very little or no bubbles but not a good full hose width of flow.. Its like 1/4 to 11/3 of o garden hose width. This entire zone is either exposed in the basement or thru to first floor. 48F out today and mostly above freezing since that bad Saturday arctic blast. notice "crap" in water I got out of purging zone3.
The "lucky" part of zone2 is its ground floor, starts in Living room, which is getting decent, heat, and ends in Kitchen which is always warm. Hence why I didn't really notice the issue until this -14F below night.

There is no screen as far as I know on the water supply . Rust from boiler? its 15 years old now.
So I guess next step is to try and back flush that zone? is there a way to even do that?

Ugggs, Pete


 
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Old 02-09-23, 02:01 PM
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Auto vents on air scoop in pictures does not vent air at zone high points. Worse often leaked and were capped Off so no air was vented!*?

Venting of air is on-going need in all hot water heating systems. Long-term venting solution is installing reliable $12 Watts auto vents at high points of each zone. Easy to confirm venting by turning black knob on Watts or shut off. If worried about problem with Watts, keep a $12 spare to swap in.
Watts auto air vent

Vented air causes many problems in hot water systems i.e. water hammer noise, lower heat transfer to elements. The old way to vent/purge was at boiler level either manually or with auto vents which many brands often leaked. Often, neither way did not vent or confirm It at high points. Some falsely believed it did, then spent time/money needlessly. After all those steps, unvented air till caused problems.
 

Last edited by doughess; 02-09-23 at 03:58 PM. Reason: repaired link
pgmomni voted this post useful.
  #4  
Old 02-10-23, 10:18 AM
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Tks for the reply.
Agree, air scoop and its auto vent likely doing very little.
The way my baseboard is installed really not anywhere to install vents upstairs.
IF i do will do at end of zones, last baseboard in bathrooms.

My issue now is what, where is the restriction in ground floor zone that limits/slows its flow.
I believe its at the rise from the basement to the first baseboard in the living room.
The end is right in the very first joist and that's where the electric service 3"inc conduit comes in. the zone piping is
literal touching that conduit. As this is a Prefab house I bet something got pinched there. Don't think it its just frozen as there is flow and pipe get very hot past that corner and thru first baseboard.

Pete

 
  #5  
Old 02-10-23, 02:44 PM
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pgmomni" The way my baseboard is installed really not anywhere to install vents upstairs.
DH used the fitting, in links below, on baseboard to install Watts auto vents with ” male fitting.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-...-Tee-Lead-Free

https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-4-in-...ing/1000505705

If no fitting for vent at high points, a quick fix is putting saddle valve on copper line to heating elements. It an be used for Watts or just open to vent. Do not use on baseboard element finned copper which is very thin.

:https://www.supplyhouse.com/Wal-rich...alve-Lead-Free
 
 

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