remove air from system


  #1  
Old 01-02-24, 09:00 AM
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remove air from system

Hello there! Will be needing to open up the system soon to replace a zone valve and after that will need to refill and then remove air. That has always been a problem with my setup. Can never seem to get the air out. Was seeing that others have added a bleed valve at highest point in their system to help with that. Any suggestions/tips on how to add that to my upstairs baseboard? Thanks for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 01-02-24, 08:32 PM
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Venting Baseboard the easy way

The simple, easy way to vent baseboard is with reliable Watts auto vents at high point of each zone. Many brands of vent fail, leak and have to be capped of because they cannot be serviced. Watts can be opened for servicing and have black knob to manually check, confirm venting or turn off.

I have 12 heating elements in metal cabinets fed by diverter tee's that were guaranteed air traps difficult to vent. A Watts on each solved venting. Also put 1/2" ball shut on valve on expansion tank 1/2" nipple to simplify depressing to work on system. .

Most vents have 1/8” Male fitting. If no fitting on baseboard use a 3/4" x 1/8" x 3/4" CxFxC Baseboard Tee/elbow

Here are links on Watts auto vents and fittings.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-4-in-...ing/1000505705
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-...-Tee-Lead-Free
Https://www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20352-source/es-fv-4m1-pdfhttps://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0590715-1-8-FV4-Auto-Air-Vent-3679000-p?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjrarBhAWEiwA2qWdCN-Qo4lGVw775kkGvQhFdjXLLptosGQz9hlDMIb1CvOgnin9w9iLgRoCGuUQAvD_BwE

 
kettling-1 voted this post useful.
  #3  
Old 01-03-24, 08:53 AM
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Thank you! That is perfect, thank you very much!

You mentioned depressing the system... so when you shut ball valve on expansion tank does that remove pressure in system or do you need to shut ball valve and then drain a bit until zero?

I have base boards and was trying to figure out a way to hide the vents or maybe make them not so obvious

Thank you very much... really appreciate the help!


 
  #4  
Old 01-03-24, 10:50 AM
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Kettling1: to depressurize system:

1. shut off ball valve on expansion tank nipple.
2. shut off valve feeding water to pressure regulator,
3. open drain valve some place on system until pressure drops to 0 psi..

Closing shut off ball valve on expansion tank nipple greatly reduces amount of water drained to reach 0 psi unless there are air pocket of air some place in system. .Expansion tanks typically are half filled with water so with valve closed is not drained.

Some baseboard companies make wider end caps with hinged overs with extra space for vent valve.
https://www.google.com/search?q=base...nt=products-cc
 

Last edited by doughess; 01-03-24 at 11:05 AM.
  #5  
Old 01-04-24, 02:51 PM
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K,
If you have shutoff valves on the supply & return lines of the zone with the problem ZV you can shut them off to isolate that 1 zone and make your repairs.

With the other zones off and the boiler off open the supply valve to that repaired zone and with a drain hose on the drain valve of that zone with about 25 psi going through that zone open the drain faucet for the zone and bleed the air. When air is removed close the drain and shut the pressure off. Remove excess water to 18-20 psi and reopen return valve and put boiler back on line and test.

Just my opinion but unless you are proficient working with copper pipes, removing that elbow could be creating a problem better left alone.
 
  #6  
Old 01-06-24, 09:16 AM
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Base Board Line Venting Easy, Low Cost Way

A positive way to confirm/assure/ venting of air in heat systems is opening line at high point of each zone to see whether water or air comes out of. Properly designed systems provide vents at high points.

There are many procedures for venting at boiler level that do not confirm or assure lack of air. Often the procedures call for raising water pressure which actually inhibits release of air. The louder noise venting impressiveness some, but is not confirmation of air removal.

For those lacking plumbing skills, low cost “quick fit” is a saddle valve in link. When installed only small opening is needed. Would gently turn in out until air or water comes out.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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Old 01-06-24, 09:04 PM
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Kettling-1 Post #7 ” Was seeing that others have added a bleed valve at highest point in their system to help with that. Any suggestions/tips on how to add that to my upstairs baseboard? Thanks for any help! “{

Kettling-1 use suggestions/tips in doughess Post #1 and #5 ‘For those lacking plumbing skills, low cost “quick fit” is a saddle valve in link. When installed only small opening is needed. Would gently turn in out until air or water comes out.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
  #8  
Old 01-08-24, 11:24 AM
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Thanks for replying! Been away from the computer for a few days.

I do have a shut off for each zone for the returns but not a shut off for each of the supplies (or maybe it is the exact opposite). That would definitely be a nice addition. Maybe be worth getting a plumber in and add those to make things easier in the future.

The saddle valve looks like a real easy way to add a vent. Little nervous though... do they have a tendency to leak?

Thanks for your help and replies on this!
 
  #9  
Old 01-08-24, 04:12 PM
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With only partial pentation of needle for flow, at 12 psi there little likelihood of leak.

If concerned, you could cap/seal off the output line of needle for flow, there little likelihood of leak. You could cap/seal off the output line.
 
  #10  
Old 01-09-24, 12:02 PM
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K,
The problem you will have if they do leak is you will end up cutting out the pipe because of the hole that was made. I have used them in the past and found them not to be reliable. They are considered so unreliable that although still sold in stores code does not allow them used in Massachusetts.
 
  #11  
Old 01-09-24, 04:05 PM
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System is back up! Got new zone valves and new power heads for all three zones. I watched a couple videos on bleeding air from system and think I got almost all the air out. I still hear pinging but I'm thinking it is at the boiler. Maybe sediment or scaling in the boiler? Is there anyway to clean the boiler or at this point you just live with it?
 
 

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