Removing latex paint from garage floor

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  #1  
Old 12-01-16, 06:14 PM
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Removing latex paint from garage floor

Hi, moved in to this house and wanted to put epoxy down on garage floor, but previous owner put a thin-to-medium coat of latex paint down on it. (Which is covered in dribbled paint, glue, stains, oil).

I've gone through the ringer trying to remove the paint. I've tried:

Acetone and scrubbing
MEKS and scrubbing
Varnish remover and scrubbing
12" floor buffer with sanding disc
17" heavy buffer with diamondwheel for "removing coatings from concrete"
Power washing
4.5 Grinder

A lot of failure. the biggest advance was the heavy buffer and diamonwheel, but that just makes bare swirls, while low spots are unaffected. Going back over those low spots with Varnish remover and power washer has had some effect, but still need to get those big patches broken up so the epoxy can grab.

I'm pondering using the varnish remover, 15 mins later after it's softened, coming in with a steel brush on grinder.

The 4.5 grinder doesn't do much but make a small swirl, but still misses the low spots.

P.S. I'm poor and trying to do this without paying out the nose or hiring someone with tools for hundreds of dollars.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 01:31 AM
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I'd be very careful in doing anything further to remove the paint. It sounds like the paint is on securely. At this stage weakening the paint's bond may only make the job more difficult.

My suggestion is to make certain everything but the paint is off the floor. Then apply the epoxy to a small area and see what happens. I believe some epoxy like Rust-oleum Epoxyshield can be applied over many (but not all) latex paints.

BTW, do you have water issues in the garage?
 
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Old 12-02-16, 02:57 AM
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Generally brushing on a paint and varnish remover, letting it set/work and the pressure washing is very effective but as Tony said, the existing paint that is well adhered might not need to be removed - check the label of the coating you intend to use.

Some pics of the floor would give us a better understanding of what you are dealing with - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 12-02-16, 11:56 AM
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I'm using Sherwin Williams Shield-crete (or Crete-Shield, can't recall). It says to get everything up off the floor. The latex paint, like my life, is complicated as hell. The low spots are thick and water proof. The high spots were thin and came up easy.

I'll get some pictures here later, but I'm not sure it's a matter of adhesion, the concrete is far from level, so the low spots aren't getting hit and the high spots are bare concrete (going over them again just makes more concrete dust).

So anything big won't work. I'm going to see about a grinding bit for 4.5" grinder that might work (tried a steel brush, general grinding disc), perhaps there is a masonry wheel for it. Just need to do some damage to it and let the varnish remover + power washer finish it off. If it can at least clear patches of the "patches" (low spots), I'll be happy.

Just wondering if anyone knows any good tricks with latex.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 12:31 PM
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Not sure why you feel you need to remove some of the coating [s] before you apply the paint and varnish remover. The paint stripper should do most of the work although some paints require a 2nd or even 3rd application of the stripper. Seems to me you are making the job harder than it should be
 
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Old 12-02-16, 04:35 PM
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This spring I finally had my 4 car garage epoxy coated. Something I've wanted in the last 6 homes.

The guy that did mine does garages on side and it cost $2K but it's perfect. He ground down the cement and put down a 2-part single epoxy with silica and colored vinyl flakes.

Having the floor ground will definitely take care of your paint issue!
 
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Old 12-14-16, 04:36 AM
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im-n-s-h-fo, anyone who fails to diamond grind ALL of the floor doesn't have to guarantee his work,,, while paint MAY have entered the pores of open conc & is difficult to remove, it still has to be gone for any epoxy to properly bond,,, we3 typically use 7" grinders w/turbo diamond cup wheels,,, corners & edges get hit w/4",,, if your 4" won't work on 'divits' you need to repair them 1st.

we like sher-wms mts however different mtls than 1 sees in a ' normal ' sher-wms store,,, we use mtls ONLY from a pro sher-wms store,,, just a thought - since epoxy isn't a final floor surface, how many install urethane over epoxy ? all specifiers, manufacturers, engineers, & pro's do
 
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