Lintel choices for Cinder Block wall; 40" Opening

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-15-17, 09:02 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: US
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Lintel choices for Cinder Block wall; 40" Opening

So we are building a gun "vault" for my father. The walls consist of 8x8x16 cinder blocks filled with concrete and rebar. The question becomes how do we create the doorway? My research has indicated that I need to install a lintel to hold the cinder blocks above the doorway.

The room will be 104" square with a 4" poured concrete ceiling. The wall that I am working on is 104" wide with a 40" rough opening for the door.

From what I've read I can use either steel or concrete lintels (most common materials anyway...) For steel, I've found that angle iron or channel is typically used. The concrete lintels are either pre-formed or made on site.

Unfortunately I can't seem to find either of those in the area. I'm thinking it is more to do with my lack thereof knowledge with where to look which has lead me to here.

Where can I get the material for this at a reasonable price? We do have a metal supplier near us but they only sell in 24' sections and I'd hate to purchase an additional 18' for waste....

Alternatively; how hard is it to make a concrete lintel? Most of what I've read/watched people build a concrete lintel by replacing the row above the door with a poured concrete piece with 4 horizontal rebar. I've played with the idea of boarding up the area above the door and pouring 2 rows of blocks as concrete with 4 pieces of horizontal per row. That way I have a homemade 88" x 8" x 16" with 8 pieces of rebar in it.

Opinions are greatly appreciated!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-15-17, 09:38 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,597
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
I've played with the idea of boarding up the area above the door and pouring 2 rows of blocks as concrete with 4 pieces of horizontal per row. That way I have a homemade 88" x 8" x 16" with 8 pieces of rebar in it.
Not an expert but that was my thought. Use 2x8 for the sides and 2x12 for the bottom. Wedge a couple of doubled 2x4s about 20 inches from each side between the floor and form bottom to support it. To keep the sides from bowing run half inch all thread in at least four places from side to side. One row near the top one row near the bottom. Slip PVC over the all thread inside the form so you can easily use remove the all thread when you disassemble the form (PVC remains in the lintel). Use screws to hold the sides to the bottom again to make disassemble easy.

Simpler to do than explain and I can't draw but here is a very crude attempt.

Name:  x.png
Views: 1044
Size:  43.2 KB

Name:  x.png
Views: 1126
Size:  8.1 KB
 

Last edited by ray2047; 01-15-17 at 10:14 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-18-17, 06:56 AM
S
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: upstate New York
Posts: 402
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Not sure about in your area, but any steel supplier I've ever dealt with will cut what you want whatever size you want (sometimes a small fee). Seems the easiest solution to me. Steve
 
  #4  
Old 01-18-17, 08:10 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: US
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The steel suppliers in the area will cut for a nominal fee ($2 I think?) it's just the excess material I don't know what to do with nor do I want to purchase.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: