Old coal chimney
#1
Old coal chimney
There is an old coal chimney flue over 3 floors in our house (built 1910).
i want to remove the flue bit am not sure if I have to remove the chimney as well?
Does the brick work in each floor support the chimney or is the chimney only supported up on the roof?
Can I knock out this square wall in each floor and then just cap the flue?
i want to remove the flue bit am not sure if I have to remove the chimney as well?
Does the brick work in each floor support the chimney or is the chimney only supported up on the roof?
Can I knock out this square wall in each floor and then just cap the flue?


Last edited by PJmax; 01-27-19 at 09:17 PM. Reason: resized picture
#2
The support for the chimney starts at the ground/basement. A chimney gets removed from the top down. If you take out a middle portion you run the risk of the brick above collapsing.
#4
1. Remove the chimney.
2. Patch the hole with the necessary framing and roof sheathing.
3. Install roofing felt and new shingles in the patched area.
Be sure new shingles at the top row are underneath the row of old shingles above.
2. Patch the hole with the necessary framing and roof sheathing.
3. Install roofing felt and new shingles in the patched area.
Be sure new shingles at the top row are underneath the row of old shingles above.
#9
I still don't get it 
So, I have to lift up the current felt and then slide in some felt patch so it's underneath, then adhesive?
To me that just seems like it would let water in. Why not put the patch on top of the hole and existing membrane?
Or do you mean because I'm folding in that membrane where the chimney is now?

So, I have to lift up the current felt and then slide in some felt patch so it's underneath, then adhesive?
To me that just seems like it would let water in. Why not put the patch on top of the hole and existing membrane?
Or do you mean because I'm folding in that membrane where the chimney is now?
#10
If water is running down hill you don't want it to intersect with a patch that is above the rest of the roof. When the adhesive fails the water will find it's way under the patch. If the patch goes all the way up to the curbing it won't need to slide under the high end.
#11
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#12
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If water is running down hill you don't want it to intersect with a patch that is above the rest of the roof. When the adhesive fails the water will find it's way under the patch. If the patch goes all the way up to the curbing it won't need to slide under the high end.
If water is running down hill you don't want it to intersect with a patch that is above the rest of the roof. When the adhesive fails the water will find it's way under the patch. If the patch goes all the way up to the curbing it won't need to slide under the high end.
Also, the roof has a type of grey gravel on it. Is this a tar roof or a membrane roof? I thought the gravel only went on tar?
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 09-30-18 at 04:55 PM.
#13
So, if I put framing in place to fill the hole, what do I patch with? Felt? and elastomeric coating or just an amount of plastic cement? Is there any need to throw grey gravely bits over like there is at the moment or just leave as a piece of black felt?
I think what we have is TPO membrane or elastomer
I think what we have is TPO membrane or elastomer
#14
I'm not a roofer but you need to install plywood over the framing/hole. I'd at least cover the felt with elastomeric or roofing tar. I wouldn't be overly concerned about making it blend visually.
#15
Over the hole or underneath it for the wood?
i assumed the finish would be flat. If the plywood goes over the hole then there will be a little 3/4" raised lip to put the felt over, then tar over the felt?
i assumed the finish would be flat. If the plywood goes over the hole then there will be a little 3/4" raised lip to put the felt over, then tar over the felt?