Long driveway options
#1
11-24-18, 06:35 AM
Long driveway options
I have a out 2500 feet of driveway I need to improve. I plan on asphalt paving a large area ose to the house, leaving the gravel "road."
I am pondering a couple options...
1. Chip and Tar - $15,000
2. Concrete forming and finishing by me - $18,000
3. 2' wide Concrete "wheel tracks" - $8,000
The terrain has large hill and 2 points where water runs across that will need to be addressed. How resistant is chip and tar to water runoff?
I am pondering a couple options...
1. Chip and Tar - $15,000
2. Concrete forming and finishing by me - $18,000
3. 2' wide Concrete "wheel tracks" - $8,000
The terrain has large hill and 2 points where water runs across that will need to be addressed. How resistant is chip and tar to water runoff?
#2
11-24-18, 07:23 AM
Member
Couple loads of crushed limestone once compacted will be solid and for a private drive will last a long time, Also a lot cheaper than options posted!
#4
11-24-18, 09:09 AM
Group Moderator
If you live somewhere cold a snowplow can damage the chip and tar driveway.
While doing concrete tire strips will keep your material cost down it comes with a price in labor. You have twice the forming and that forming needs to be done nice otherwise the two parallel tracks really points out every flaw.
While doing concrete tire strips will keep your material cost down it comes with a price in labor. You have twice the forming and that forming needs to be done nice otherwise the two parallel tracks really points out every flaw.
#5
11-24-18, 10:10 AM
if you can place drainage ditches and culverts to direct the run off under the driveway can help a lot in keeping the driveway from being washed out but if thats not feasible concrete at those points of water run off may be your best option.
#6
11-25-18, 08:48 PM
No plowing here so I'm good there. I'm tired of throwing $1,000 of crusher run at it every 8 or 9 months
The chip guy I talked to said he does a layer of tar, then chips, then roll, then repeat with 2nd layer using 3/8"s
The labor for the runners isn't a big deal add it is well within my skill set to formm and finish. I was thinking 24" x 6' sections?
The chip guy I talked to said he does a layer of tar, then chips, then roll, then repeat with 2nd layer using 3/8"s
The labor for the runners isn't a big deal add it is well within my skill set to formm and finish. I was thinking 24" x 6' sections?
Last edited by SharpTJ; 11-25-18 at 09:14 PM.
#7
11-26-18, 02:29 AM
I
What type of ground is your driveway on? Is the gravel sinking or washing away? If it's sinking into the dirt you should either excavate or start with bigger rock. If it's washing away you might see if you can redirect the water. I have a mountain driveway consisting mostly of slate rock. In the beginning I had to regrade my road after every rain storm. Then I had it recut and ditched [angled] on the inside. It now requires about 90% less tractor work.
'm tired of throwing $1,000 of crusher run at it every 8 or 9 months
#8
11-26-18, 08:22 AM
Group Moderator
I have a driveway about as long as yours and only put down one load of stone (about $350) about every 8 years. Are you putting down stone because you see grass and weeds in the drive? If so the answer is weed killer and not dump more stone on every year.
#9
11-26-18, 09:05 AM
Best I can tell, it is clay sub, with 4" of #2, then type with 57s and 1/2" crusher run
Some washes away but there is alot of soil pumping too in the lower areas
It would cost a much to excavate and build it correctly as it would to Chip and tar.
I'll post up a video of the drive when I get home
Some washes away but there is alot of soil pumping too in the lower areas
It would cost a much to excavate and build it correctly as it would to Chip and tar.
I'll post up a video of the drive when I get home
#11
11-26-18, 10:10 AM
the base could wash out also as water erodes the base underneath it would probably address the water runoff first then give it some time and heavy rains to decide on which way you may want to go.
