Prehung door screws
#1
05-06-16, 03:17 PM
Prehung door screws
I'm in the process of building a deck and I've changed the picture window in my dining rm for a 15 lite door. Special order prehung [78" tall] I got everything ready to install the prehung and noticed there were installation instructions included so I figured I'd read them just to make sure.
The confusing part is where it says to use 2.25" drywall screws. It says to use drywall screws thru the top of the jamb without shims [head piece] and at the bottom of each side jamb. First off I'd think a drywall screw would be the wrong type. Also I don't ever recall seeing a carpenter on the job using a screw gun when installing an exterior door other than to install some longer ones on the hinges. I haven't installed any screws in the jamb, just gun nails and a handful of 10 penny finish nails.
I also plan to install a storm door w/screen. The instructions say not to use a storm door. I will install one anyway, mostly for the screen in the summer. While the glass will be up all summer it would seem pointless not to lower the glass in the winter. The door does see the morning sun although barely in the winter months. This is on the northeast side of my house.
any thoughts?
The confusing part is where it says to use 2.25" drywall screws. It says to use drywall screws thru the top of the jamb without shims [head piece] and at the bottom of each side jamb. First off I'd think a drywall screw would be the wrong type. Also I don't ever recall seeing a carpenter on the job using a screw gun when installing an exterior door other than to install some longer ones on the hinges. I haven't installed any screws in the jamb, just gun nails and a handful of 10 penny finish nails.
I also plan to install a storm door w/screen. The instructions say not to use a storm door. I will install one anyway, mostly for the screen in the summer. While the glass will be up all summer it would seem pointless not to lower the glass in the winter. The door does see the morning sun although barely in the winter months. This is on the northeast side of my house.
any thoughts?
#2
05-06-16, 03:44 PM
Group Moderator
The head on windows and doors is "not supposed to" get shimmed because supposedly it's to allow room for settling of the framing around the unit. No, I would never use drywall screws. Finish screws only... I'm partial to the grk t-10 torx finish screws. They leave a smaller hole to putty.. you should like that! I will usually screw and shim the side jambs in 4 or 5 places per side, depending. 10d finish nails work too, through the shims... screws just make it easier to adjust the door when you are setting it. Hard to back a nail out you know. Yes, a long screw through each hinge, closest to the weatherstrip to hit more of the stud.
Always check the slap of the door before you go crazy nailing it off... when you bring it closed it should line up with the jamb... you should have a nice even 1/8" gap when you swing the door until it almost touches the strike plate. If it's not a nice even gap, the jamb legs aren't in the same plane, so the door is twisted. That should be fixed to make the door swing plumb.
They are likely concerned about heat buildup between the doors... don't blame them. They are just putting that in there for warranty purposes. No one wants to stand behind anything anymore.
Always check the slap of the door before you go crazy nailing it off... when you bring it closed it should line up with the jamb... you should have a nice even 1/8" gap when you swing the door until it almost touches the strike plate. If it's not a nice even gap, the jamb legs aren't in the same plane, so the door is twisted. That should be fixed to make the door swing plumb.
They are likely concerned about heat buildup between the doors... don't blame them. They are just putting that in there for warranty purposes. No one wants to stand behind anything anymore.
#3
05-06-16, 03:48 PM
long screws through each hinge
I did use a shim and nail the middle of the head
hopefully it won't become an issue.
#5
05-06-16, 04:53 PM
The two screws they supplied were probably for the top and middle hinge where there are vacant screw holes. Brant, the only thing about GRK T10 is you have to buy a more substantial bit than the one in the box. Must be pot metal or something as they tend to cam out too quickly and become rounded. Otherwise, I agree with the T10 or #1 square drive trim screws. I also install the screws under the lip of the seal so the seal hides them. I don't paint.
#6
05-06-16, 07:20 PM
Group Moderator
I throw those short bits away when I find em. I always buy the ones that are 2" long that I can pop them in my impact since they are quick change. I rarely use a driver extension.
#7
05-06-16, 08:32 PM
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#1 square drive trim screws
#8
05-07-16, 06:21 AM
As long as we have destroyed Mark's thread..........Brant, have you ever used these GRK's for vinyl window installation? I found several boxes in the HD clearance section and bought all they had. For the others, the notch at the top of the screw goes through the vinyl and locks in. If you need to adjust the symmetry of the window, you can just unscrew or screw in the screw and eliminates pulling screws completely out.
#9
05-07-16, 06:57 AM
Group Moderator
Haven't used them for window installation but they look similar to the cabinet screws I've used.
#10
05-07-16, 07:19 AM
I, too, use their cabinet screws, but the notch at the top sets them apart as they are made specifically for penetrating the vinyl on windows and forming a lock.
