Hi guys, I had a new vinyl patio door installed last week and I took this as an opportunity to install craftsman-style, white painted interior door trim, with the hope of eventually redoing all the trim in my house the same way. The 3.25" side casing has a simple roundover and no profile, and the header assembly is a combination of a bead, flat frieze, and decorative cornice that's around 4.25" tall. I've never trimmed a door before, and after dry-fitting my side casing and reviewing my walls & door frame, I have two issues: 1. The right side casing is flush on both sides for all but the inside bottom 24" or so. I've beaten the drywall with a block & hammer and even shaved it with a razor, but I'm still left with a tapered gap against the vinyl door frame that at its biggest is 1/8" at the floor and gradually tapers closed by 24" off the ground. My challenge is that (I assume) I can't nail this gap shut because I can't drive nails through the inside half of the casing due to the vinyl underneath, so I will only be able to nail the outside half. The trim will be painted white and the vinyl itself is white, so I know a lot of advice would say to caulk this joint and be done with it. Is there a better approach? I bought 1/4" thin poplar strips today just as a back-up... is there a benefit in attaching this to the backside of the casing and then tapering it with a block plane or something instead of caulking? 2. I have the reverse situation at the door header. The door frame stands about a 1/16" proud of the drywall where they meet, but by the top of where my header assembly will be the drywall tapers back enough to increase the gap to about 1/8". Are my options here limited to mudding this entire header section of the drywall to bring the drywall surface flush with the door frame, or else adding some of this same think poplar to the back of the assembly? If the second option, where and how do I add this extra wood? I'm visualizing a situation where I've built the header up in back with strips but the side edges of the header now show a gap with the wall, and this looks horrible in my mind. I'm a bit of a perfectionist with stuff and I want to do this "right"... but I get that this is a blurry line sometimes. Thanks for the help guys.

First post here but long time DIY'er! ;) Just finishing up installing laminate flooring (whole 'nother subject!) and planning ahead to reinstall the baseboard. Since there is so much of it, I'm planning on buying a nailer and wondered what anyone would recommend. Since the new floor and padding raised the baseboard, I'll have to nail it pretty low to catch the bottom plate. Wondering how close a nailer can get to the floor and/or corners? I will have to go to HD and grab one and get a feel for it. I'm thinking 16 ga brad nailer should do the job. Better than all of the 8d finishing nails used originally! Also thinking I will have to go with some sections of PVC baseboard since some walls are wavy. The original 'solution' was to drive in a bunch of 8d nails to force the baseboard to be somewhat flush. I appreciate any suggestions!