how to remove chair rails that flow into the window
#1
08-07-16, 12:35 PM
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how to remove chair rails that flow into the window
Hello, How do you remove chair rails that flow in to the window. Please see attached picture.
I want to remove the part of the chair rail that is inside the in window because the blinds do not have enough room to close.
I just bought this house a few months ago and starting doing little DIY projects around the house. I am new to this site and to working with my hands
.I got a ton of things to get done before the new baby arrives next week. Thanks in advance,
#2
08-07-16, 12:38 PM
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Where is the picture? I'm guessing that if you say the chair rail turns the corner and goes inside the jamb of the window, thereby reducing it's width, that you would need you cut it and return it to the wall just short of that outside corner.
Edit: there it is.... yeah, you would stop the moulding short... so it would be like moving the miter back 1/2" or so... and the return would return to the wall... not to the window. So the return portion would just be a tiny triangle.
Edit: there it is.... yeah, you would stop the moulding short... so it would be like moving the miter back 1/2" or so... and the return would return to the wall... not to the window. So the return portion would just be a tiny triangle.
#3
08-07-16, 12:58 PM
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Thank you!
So I just need to cut enough off to add the returner. What is the best tool to cut the chair rail?
Attached is after I removed the window portion of the chair rail.... looks like they painted this room orange at one time...
So I just need to cut enough off to add the returner. What is the best tool to cut the chair rail?
Attached is after I removed the window portion of the chair rail.... looks like they painted this room orange at one time...
#4
08-07-16, 02:23 PM
Member
There is no way to cut that beaded molding leaving it in place.
Need to cut the paint and caulking lines to remove it.
It's cut with compound mitre saw.
In a pinch a cheap mitre box will work.
The return will need to be glued on, not nailed.
Need to cut the paint and caulking lines to remove it.
It's cut with compound mitre saw.
In a pinch a cheap mitre box will work.
The return will need to be glued on, not nailed.
#5
08-07-16, 04:36 PM
Group Moderator
Well, a pro would do as joe says, put it on a miter saw, cut a new 45 on the remaining piece.. cut a small triangular return out of the piece you removed, then glue that onto the end.
But assuming you don't have any of those tools you might just want to take a hand saw and cut that moulding off square... flush with the corner. Then clean the cut up with some sandpaper. Its not the way a pro would do it but it would still look ok once painted up.
But assuming you don't have any of those tools you might just want to take a hand saw and cut that moulding off square... flush with the corner. Then clean the cut up with some sandpaper. Its not the way a pro would do it but it would still look ok once painted up.
#6
08-08-16, 04:38 AM
I agree it would be easiest to just cut it flush and touch up the paint. Another easy option might be to replace the piece you took off but cut it shorter so the blind has room to clear it.
From the photos, it looks like the trim may be "built in" to the cabinets themselves, as opposed to being attached as an easily-removed piece of trim wood.
If this is the case:
- It looks like the trim curves extend above the bottom of the cabinet. I think if I were to cut or sand them down straight, then the the front-bottom would no longer be flush with the sides.
- If this is true, would it be wise to "fill in" the curves with something, then sand it down straight? If so, what filler should I use?