Pantry rollout slides
#1
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Pantry rollout slides
Hi
I am building a pantry rollout between my two refrigerators. The rollout is 7” wide, 32” deep and about 6’ tall and will contain shelves. It sits on casters. There are no wooden walls between the fridges so its basically free-standing.
It will look like the below, but will be open on both sides
https://www.classyclutter.net/build-...ood-organizer/
The only problem is that it will wobble and tip over when fully extended. I know that there are really pricey slides for this ($200), but I am looking for a less expensive method, unless I have no choice. There are two 2x4’s that support refrigerator cabinets over the fridge, and I was thinking that I could attach a 32” full extension slide to the top of the cab, and attach the slide to the 2x4’s. This will keep the top aligned. This will cost about $30 for one slide
Not sure how to keep the bottom aligned but that website suggest locking casters.
Any ideas?
Thanks
I am building a pantry rollout between my two refrigerators. The rollout is 7” wide, 32” deep and about 6’ tall and will contain shelves. It sits on casters. There are no wooden walls between the fridges so its basically free-standing.
It will look like the below, but will be open on both sides
https://www.classyclutter.net/build-...ood-organizer/
The only problem is that it will wobble and tip over when fully extended. I know that there are really pricey slides for this ($200), but I am looking for a less expensive method, unless I have no choice. There are two 2x4’s that support refrigerator cabinets over the fridge, and I was thinking that I could attach a 32” full extension slide to the top of the cab, and attach the slide to the 2x4’s. This will keep the top aligned. This will cost about $30 for one slide
Not sure how to keep the bottom aligned but that website suggest locking casters.
Any ideas?
Thanks
#2
I would not use rotating or locking casters. The pantry doesn't need to rotate so buy non-rotating casters. If possible attach the casters using a screw that has a hex head. I think you will have trouble keeping it aligned perfectly but with care you can tweek the casters to get it to roll in and out in a straight line. With hex head screws you can loosen them from the side and slightly adjust the caster alignment and re-tighten without having to take the cabinet down.
#3
For bottom alignment rip a 1X board just shy of the width between the casters. Make the length the same as the depth of the cabinet from front-to-back. Screw the board to the floor so the casters will ride on each side as the cabinet is moved in and out. This will bring the cabinet back into alignment as it is pushed back in. You could cut an angle on the outside front edge to help guide the front casters back into alignment if the cabinet is going too far sideways when extended.
Above assumes four casters side-by-side: two in front and two in back. If using a single caster then just mount two boards to form a "groove" in the center to guide the casters.
Above assumes four casters side-by-side: two in front and two in back. If using a single caster then just mount two boards to form a "groove" in the center to guide the casters.
Last edited by 2john02458; 11-27-18 at 09:55 AM. Reason: single caster suggestion
#4
It would have to be slim, probably metal vs 2x4, but a guide rail down the middle between the rollers sliding into a similar slim arrangement on the floor would keep the shelf centered left to right.
Bud
Bud
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Ok,
I tried the casters and putting a drawer slide on the top of the pullout to make sure that it won't tip over. This did not work for a number of reasons.
My latest grand plan, is to buy a pair of 350 lb slides ($80) and to build a wood channel that will hold the slides and screw into the floor. Like this (only mine is about 6 ft tall)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rev-A-She...yABEgLa6vD_BwE
Btw, the reason that the slides are "vertical" is because if the slides are placed horizontally on the wood, you lose half the load bearing.
I'm also thinking of using Simpson angle brackets instead of wood walls, since this will further reinforce the "frame".
Hopefully that will do it
Thanks
I tried the casters and putting a drawer slide on the top of the pullout to make sure that it won't tip over. This did not work for a number of reasons.
- the floor is not level, so the top slide was binding.
- the casters were not staying straight and the pullout was giving out from the bottom.
My latest grand plan, is to buy a pair of 350 lb slides ($80) and to build a wood channel that will hold the slides and screw into the floor. Like this (only mine is about 6 ft tall)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rev-A-She...yABEgLa6vD_BwE
Btw, the reason that the slides are "vertical" is because if the slides are placed horizontally on the wood, you lose half the load bearing.
I'm also thinking of using Simpson angle brackets instead of wood walls, since this will further reinforce the "frame".
Hopefully that will do it
Thanks
#6
I build slide out pantry few years ago I used the one's second row 3rd over. Expensive but no problems. My pantry's are bigger than yours '
https://pro.woodworker.com/search.asp?search=pantry%20slides&SEARCHMODE=2
https://pro.woodworker.com/search.asp?search=pantry%20slides&SEARCHMODE=2