Adding trim under window

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  #1  
Old 05-25-19, 06:55 PM
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Adding trim under window

hi-

I am installing subway tile in our kitchen and the distance between the counter top and window sill in the pictures is about 1/4" off from left to right. I am planning on adding a small piece of trim under the existing trim so that I can tuck the top of the tile behind it.

I have a 16 gauge and 18 gauge nail gun and mitre saw (will purchase handheld router). what type of nails do I use to fasten this to the wall and do I just pop them into the studs?

Thanks,
 
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Old 05-26-19, 03:43 AM
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If you use tile matching grout I don't think the discrepancy will be that noticeable. IMO am extra piece of trim to hide it won't look any better.
 
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Old 05-26-19, 09:01 AM
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Thanks. Iím glad Iím not a builder, this stuff would drive me nuts. We hung a tv yesterday and dealt with the same stuff were not everything was squared up.
 
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Old 05-26-19, 09:30 AM
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What are you installing on the countertop??

You may be able to add the tile flush to the window trim and leave the gap difference at the bottom which would then be covered by the counter.

Again, depends on what is being installed!
 
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Old 05-26-19, 10:02 AM
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I should have used a zoomed out picture. This is a larger corner window (2 windows) in our kitchen where the sink is. The picture shows the left side, as we move to the corner and then to the end of the second window the sill sits more than 1/4Ē higher. Iím just installing horizontal subway tile and donít want it to look weird because the 3Ē tile height isnít big enough to bridge the gap between the counter and sill. Iím gonna have to cut little sliver pieces for the top or bottom row and they will for sure look weird. Thatís why I wanted to add or extend the trim a bit so all you see is a single three inch high tile across instead of a row of three inch tile and then some sliver pieces that will grow larger from left to right. I think if I extend the sill it will do a better job of fooling the eye. Thx
 
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Old 05-26-19, 10:10 AM
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You could remove the casing and retrim the window so that it has a stool and apron. That would move your trim down 3/4" or so.
 
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Old 05-26-19, 12:30 PM
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Thank you. I found some good resources online that describe the stool and apron. It think this will look good. Thanks again!
 
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Old 05-27-19, 11:14 AM
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I absolutely HATE small slivers in a tile job and will do almost anything to avoid them. I think in most cases they indicate poor planning and shoddy workmanship.

In the photo below the window placement resulted in a 1/4 inch vertical tile strip along the left edge of the trim. The trim could not be changed due to condition at the hanging cabinet above. The entire pattern could not have been shifted right to eliminate that without causing an off-center alignment at the range area further right (not shown). I actually I had tiled up to the outlet including the 1/4 inch pieces but the more I thought about it the less I liked it. I had finished tiling that area at 6 PM and at 9 PM I went back and took it all off as far back as the faucet. The next day I fixed it. Can you see what I did to eliminate the 1/4 inch sliver?

The tile at the end of the measuring tape (and similar ones in the rows above) was trimmed 1/4 inch so it is 5 3/4 inches instead of 6. Due to their placement behind the faucet area and because it only affects 3+ rows below the window the difference is not noticeable. Certainly less noticeable than 1/4 inch tile pieces all along the window trim.

Modifying your window trim is a good way for you to resolve your issue.
 
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Old 05-31-19, 12:59 PM
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Does anyone have tips for me on how to best remove the two pieces of trim under the window without damaging it?

I was planning on using a razor to score the paint and then seeing if I could slide a putty knife under the bottom to get it going. I'm not sure where all the nails are usually.

thx
 
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Old 05-31-19, 07:03 PM
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Yes, that's the way to do it. You just have to go slow and be careful. Cut any caulk or paint... I would pry under the outside edge of the casing first... diagonally at the bottom corners of the miters... using a glazing pry bar, (I find its the best tool to use) pry under both pieces at the same time to get it started. The miters often have one nail that pins the corner together. The inside casing perimeter is usually nailed to the jamb with brad nails, the outside casing perimeter will have a few larger finish nails.
 
 

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