I need to install hinges on a couple shaker style cabinet doors. The cabinet is framed out of 2x4's, with the 2x4's face out. The dimensions are 36" across and 30" high. (they'll be 2 doors) The shaker style door frames are made out of 1x4's with the exact measurements of the cabinet (18" x 30"). So the stiles are 30" long and the rails are 11" long. What are my choice of hinges? If at all possible, I'd like them to be concealed or hidden.
I've attached a picture of the cabinet with a rough drawing of where the doors would go. The red 'X' is the approximate location of where I would like to put hinges.
They are very finicky so you would need to follow their directions very carefully... there is no adjustment on them, so you have one shot at it. You'd be wise to watch some videos on how they are installed. One problem you may have is that you need some space between the cabinet door and the framing. If they fit together too tightly, the doors will "creak" and rub when you operate them.
Honestly you'd be better off if you made some nice face frames out of poplar 1x2, that you could apply onto the front of those crude cabinet boxes. Then, rather than doing full overlay, just do a partial overlay and use some self closing hinges that screw onto the face frames. (Much easier for you to line up and install). Your cabinet doors would then need to be about 1 1/2" smaller than the overall cabinet box and face frame is. So you'd have about 3/4" of reveal all the way around the outside of the double doors... and a 1/8" gap between them. You need to have some reveal around the doors, especially at the floor. 30" doors on a 30" tall cabinet are going to drag on the floor.
Good afternoon,
I am a reluctanat, as-needed DIY'er, so my experience is limited. I inherited this nightmare from the previous owners and have had very few contractors interested in helping me resolve these issues. There are two main issues.
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[*]The flat roof next to the pitched roof has caused an excessive amount of water to both roll off of the roof & to pool on top of the roof. I have had a variety of issues from the ceiling caving in to a recurrence of termites. My idea to correct this issue is to only have the slope in one direction (away from the flat roof), but I have had so much trouble finding a roofer who has a framer on staff or a carpenter to reframe the roof. The last roof pic shows the one-sided roof that I was hoping to achieve.
[*]The entire structure is a converted carport/garage. There seems to be quite a few issues with the structure. It's roughly 12" below the rest of my house & my deck out back, so it keeps getting flooded. I'm suspecting that the flooding is coming from standing water under the deck, but I have no guess as to how the termites are getting in. I have been treating the exterior walls (in the accessible parts of the yard & have not seen any tunnels). I have also drilled holes in the walls to spray pesticide inside the walls. Now, for the 2nd time, the termites have gotten to it.
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My questions:
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[*]Is the one-sided roof a good idea? If so, are there any other considerations that need to be taken into account if I go that route? None of the contractors have recommended gutters or anything else to account for the change in the flow of the water.
[*]Would it be a waste to get this structure elevated & then repair the termite damage? I have had some contractors recommend tear it down & rebuild, but I don't want to be without one of these rooms for months or a year (I really can't). Currently, the termite damage is the wall that the doors share & the room on the right.
[*]If the termites have eaten the wall and frame around the doors, is there a temporary solution for securing the doors? I had one contractor tell me that he could put in a 2x4, but I don't see what he would be nailing it n2. Even the header looks like it may have been compromised, so I have my doubts about what I'm being told. I don't want to be on the hook for demo to this guy & then be without both rooms for some reason. If it is possible, I would be willing to do so until I make a decision.
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Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm so overwhelmed!!!
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/carport_exterior_7fb6286281cff5a1f4b1f750b488b22907ee96d9.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1280x960/carport_flashing_2a4e09e125663c7503574f5dcad0e378c0683aa1.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/one_sided_roof_1f44831a0c6b49daa52d0690c925088de574a621.jpg[/img]
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[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/wide_view_of_porch_4ef6cb191818fc65f165fd0e9ed00adf13ea3ec4.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/768x1024/bottom_of_door_frame_3f0cbb36c74abbbf4aa406d9ea103339e65c0645.jpg[/img]
Does anyone know what these plastic drawer stops are called and if they are available for purchase online? They are used to stop a drawer from being pulled out. I haven’t had any luck finding them and not knowing what they are called isn’t helping.
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/pxl_20221005_022151361_portrait_e54b10ffd39d6d6d665e5da4eda7159beba85b33.jpg[/img]
[i]They push into the drawer side to stop the drawer being pulled out[/i]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/pxl_20221005_022228593_883fec3c1dba16153ac907deda09553eddac3b34.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1471/pxl_20221005_022051614_portrait_5ec730558f775d944017d035b0c4264362996b11.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1940x2000/pxl_20221005_022646017_portrait_0d2361ca80a45de4206da1832ca10e473afdaa3f.jpg[/img]
10-03-22, 11:06 PM
