Ledger Board or not?
#1
06-09-16, 05:18 AM
Ledger Board or not?
Hi friends, I have a 100 year old brick home and I would like to build a 16' x 16' deck. There was an 8' x 6' sunroom at the back of the house but we have now torn that down to make way for our new deck plans.
The sunroom was built in and around 1948 based on the newspapers that were carefully spread out under the linoleum flooring. The builder of this sunroom notched out the brick in the first course directly above the foundation block (approx. 30" above grade) to run beams perpendicular from the house and the other end resting on posts that were just sitting on the ground.
I would like to place a 2" x 10" ledger board across the back of the house with proper membrane and flashing, but I'm not quite sure the best method of fastening it to the brick, keeping in mind that this is NOT brick veneer, it is a double brick wall with air space between the brick.
I'm going to assume that the method the builder chose in 1948 is a no no, even though the structure stayed secure at the house but did have a noticeable drop where it rested upon the posts that just sat on the ground.
I'll likely have some other questions regarding this deck construction but I'll start here for now, I'm located in Southern Ontario if that helps.
TIA, Al
The sunroom was built in and around 1948 based on the newspapers that were carefully spread out under the linoleum flooring. The builder of this sunroom notched out the brick in the first course directly above the foundation block (approx. 30" above grade) to run beams perpendicular from the house and the other end resting on posts that were just sitting on the ground.
I would like to place a 2" x 10" ledger board across the back of the house with proper membrane and flashing, but I'm not quite sure the best method of fastening it to the brick, keeping in mind that this is NOT brick veneer, it is a double brick wall with air space between the brick.
I'm going to assume that the method the builder chose in 1948 is a no no, even though the structure stayed secure at the house but did have a noticeable drop where it rested upon the posts that just sat on the ground.
I'll likely have some other questions regarding this deck construction but I'll start here for now, I'm located in Southern Ontario if that helps.
TIA, Al
#2
06-09-16, 06:35 AM
Member
Got a picture so we can see what they did to that wall?
How far above grade is this going to be?
Keep in mind if this not going to be an enclosed deck to make sure that decking is about 6" below any door openings.
How far above grade is this going to be?
Keep in mind if this not going to be an enclosed deck to make sure that decking is about 6" below any door openings.
#3
06-09-16, 08:00 AM
I suspect the only good way to attach a ledger would be to bolt it completely thru the brick.
Free standing deck is also an option if it doesn't get a roof.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Free standing deck is also an option if it doesn't get a roof.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#4
06-09-16, 09:03 AM
The only way to penetrate through two courses of brick and the ledger board would be with a 12" bolt 
#6
06-09-16, 09:10 AM
You'd use bolts similar to these - Zinc Plated Steel Carriage Bolt, Truss Head, 1/2"-13, 13" Length (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
#7
06-09-16, 10:27 AM
Not sure myself about brick strength, is there a chance that installing long carriage bolts might collapse the two rows of brick in the air space between them?
#9
06-09-16, 02:12 PM
You don't necessarily need extra long bolts if you can find galvanized allthread.
I wonder if brick provides more structural strength than a rim joist? You might consider a stand alone deck.
I wonder if brick provides more structural strength than a rim joist? You might consider a stand alone deck.
#10
06-09-16, 03:41 PM
Seems this entire project is beginning to appear over-complicated. I am also doing waterproofing to the back wall of the house under where the deck will be, there has been some seepage over time and I've located the area that is allowing water in, so I figure best to do the entire wall now before there is a deck on top of it.
That said, I am concerned about placing the foundation columns into the freshly excavated ground. I was initially going to place footings 2' from the house but I'm not sure if that is the best option now with the waterproofing being done.
That said, I am concerned about placing the foundation columns into the freshly excavated ground. I was initially going to place footings 2' from the house but I'm not sure if that is the best option now with the waterproofing being done.
#11
07-03-16, 04:20 AM
Update, I've completed the waterproofing and have gone ahead and installed a 2x10x18' ledger board using 24-6" sleeve anchors. The ledger board will act primarily for keeping the deck square to the house. The first set of posts (3) are 2' from the house, then 7' and 7' again to total 16' of depth, 9 posts in total.
I do have a question, the Simpson DJT14Z appears to be rated at 1220lbs with a 5/8 bolt. Assuming that the load rating is per each piece of installed hardware, that would make 2440lbs load capacity at each post using a sandwich configuration?
DJT | Deck Ties | Decks | Decks and Fences | Wood Construction Connectors | Connectors | Simpson Strong-Tie
I do have a question, the Simpson DJT14Z appears to be rated at 1220lbs with a 5/8 bolt. Assuming that the load rating is per each piece of installed hardware, that would make 2440lbs load capacity at each post using a sandwich configuration?
DJT | Deck Ties | Decks | Decks and Fences | Wood Construction Connectors | Connectors | Simpson Strong-Tie
