Redoing Stairs, where to glue?

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Old 10-30-16, 07:52 AM
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Redoing Stairs, where to glue?

I'm redoing my stairs. I'm replacing the risers and using retread to go over the current treads. I'm pre-staining and finishing all the parts probably with 3 coats, then, once installed I'll do one last coat.

I don't have a nail gun, so when I install should I used 6d or 4d nails? How many nails per piece, or how many nails per inch? Maybe 3 nails on each side of every riser and tread? Either way I'll pre-drill using a 1/16" bit. As I understand I should only nail into the stringer and should not try to nail through the tread into the vertical riser below. I intent to be very liberal with the liquid nails. The retread does rest on top of the riser. Should I glue there?

After install, before the final coat, do I just finish over the nail heads or should I slightly countersink and putty (which in turn will require more stain)? What's considered good or common practice?

I'm open to any suggestions and advice. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-30-16, 08:00 AM
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How about trim head screws instead of the nails. Put 2 into each stringer.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 10:13 AM
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You always want to countersink the nails and then putty the hole prior to the final coat of poly. Use colored putty [it won't need stain]
 
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Old 10-30-16, 10:26 AM
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Are these interior stairs or exterior stairs? This is posted in an exterior / deck forum.
 
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Old 10-30-16, 01:19 PM
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XSleeper,

Sorry, they are interior stairs. Do you want me to repost in the proper forum?
 
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Old 10-30-16, 01:23 PM
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marksr,

okay, I'm just using golden oak, so that should be pretty easy to match. 4d? 6d? Two per each side of each tread for a total of four? Same with risers?

Glue riser topside of riser to bottom of overlapping retread?


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JIMMIEM

Is using trim head screws common practice? Size?
 
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Old 10-30-16, 03:46 PM
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Trim head screws require more work than nails. Need to countersink the screws and fill a larger hole than a nail hole. Some stair installers don't even bother with nails and rely solely on the construction adhesive. Trim head screws would be in the #4, #5, or #6 range.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 08:58 AM
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I appreciate all the help, but soon I'll be installing. Can I get a quick answer on whether or not to glue the top of the risers to the bottom of the retread? With perpendicular surfaces I'm not always certain what to do. In some cases there will be a small gap between the riser and bottom of the retread, so using liquid nails will also give me some support as it fills in the gap.

Thanks !
 
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Old 10-31-16, 09:19 AM
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Better to rely on wood shims for edge support. The edges are a high stress area when the step is walked on. Do the overlays have a lip that overhangs the riser? If so, then glue on top of the shims would be ok. Another good product is PL Premium Adhesive.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 02:08 PM
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JIMMIEM,

Yes, that was actually my plan. I'm gonna shim up the riser exactly enough to support the retread, and yes, they have the overlap. Many of the original treads are actually sort of bowed up in the middle so construction adhesive is going to play a role.

Thanks for the help and for getting back to me on this particular question. I'll glue the riser top after I shim it.

I actually think I'm gonna go with the nails instead of the screws. As you say, I'll have less to countersink and it's my understanding that the glue does most of the work anyway.

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:04 PM
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Depending on the extent and location of the original tread bowing you may want to consider flattening them or adding shims to make a flat base for the retread....otherwise the retread may wind up with a hump.
Can you post some pictures?
 
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Old 11-01-16, 07:20 AM
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JIMMIEM,

Maybe I exaggerated the hump. The "hump" creates maybe a 3/16" difference such that in some cases there's a little wobble to the retread when set on top of the original 1.5" (true) tread. Using nails and glue and the risers in front and back, I think I get it set just where I want it. Between that and the shimming, I hope I get it done fast enough so that I'm not spending too much time sitting on a retread that's gluing while working on the one above it. If possible, I'd like to install, putty the holes, then apply the last coat of finish all in one day. That last coat will bring me to a total of four coats. My plan is to light sand all surfaces before install to save me having to do it later.

I haven't really planned to do the lock blocks or whatever you call the reinforcement that goes on the underside/backside of the steps. Can I do that later AFTER I install and refinish everything?
 
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Old 11-01-16, 08:33 AM
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I'd get rid of the wobble. If you get any movement later you will have squeaks as the retread moves up and down against the nail(s). What type of finish are you using? If it's an oil poly and the house is inhabited you might want to consider doing every other step so you can get up and down the stairs while the drying is going on. Also, consider applying the final finish before you install the retreads...you can fill the nail holes and then dab on a little finish over the filler...shouldn't be too noticeable unless you look hard-----just a suggestion. Will you be installing a stair carpet runner?
Lock blocks?
 
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Old 11-01-16, 01:13 PM
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JIMMIEM,

I guess I could skip the final coat and just do the nail heads, but in the last thread I started the responders convinced me I should do one final coat after it was all installed. I'll sand, install with nail & glue, clean, then top coat.

That said, I've read up on liquid nail adhesive. I don't see how (at most) it would fail to fill a 3/16" gap as that's part of what it's designed for. On the other hand, I just checked out their website and they say liquid nails HEAVY DUTY isn't intended for us with flooring. I think I should go back and get their SUBFLOOR version.
LIQUID NAILS Adhesive | Subfloor & Deck Construction Adhesive

I'll try it without the runner and see how slippery it is, but that's a good safety tip.

Also, it seems like a good idea to bring the pieces inside to let them acclimate before install. I remember doing this with the floating floor I did a couple years back.
 
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