Deck Finish That Soaks Into Wood Without Skinning
#1
Deck Finish That Soaks Into Wood Without Skinning
I am looking for suggestions on a stain or preservative for a (currently bare wood) deck that does not require periodic stripping with the attendant chemical mess or scraping/sanding dust.
I think I want something that soaks into the wood versus form a thin waterproof layer that could puncture and let water go under it.
I think I want something that soaks into the wood versus form a thin waterproof layer that could puncture and let water go under it.
#3
Oil based stains are absorbed, water based are often more of a coating...in my experience.
Examples...
Thompsons Water Seal specifically says you need to check for absorption of a few drops to ensure the wood is dry enough to finish. Most people detest Thompsons as it doesn't last as long as some others...depending on conditions. The nice thing is that there's no stripping or removal involved when it needs redoing. Yes, you have to clean with a deck cleaner or soap and oxalic acid to make it ready for recoating...but the old stuff won't whiten and flake and peel like some types. You just clean, let dry completely, and reapply. Solvent clean up of equipment as well I believe.
I've also used some (thought it was Olympic, but maybe not) that has no real oily type smell and could even be put on damp wood, went on white, dried clear and they cautioned about doing thin coats to prevent a thick film which would peel. Though I didn't have to use it as often, it sure was more work as the deck had to be stripped of any old finish before putting down new. Soap and water clean up.
That said...you'll likely get better advice and products at a paint store. They'll know best what works in your area.
Me? Few wood decks out here...and I just use Thompsons for outdoor wood projects along with the green copper stuff on the ground contact points to keep bugs away. No real rot or mildew/mold problems in 100°, 10-15% humidity conditions.
Examples...
Thompsons Water Seal specifically says you need to check for absorption of a few drops to ensure the wood is dry enough to finish. Most people detest Thompsons as it doesn't last as long as some others...depending on conditions. The nice thing is that there's no stripping or removal involved when it needs redoing. Yes, you have to clean with a deck cleaner or soap and oxalic acid to make it ready for recoating...but the old stuff won't whiten and flake and peel like some types. You just clean, let dry completely, and reapply. Solvent clean up of equipment as well I believe.
I've also used some (thought it was Olympic, but maybe not) that has no real oily type smell and could even be put on damp wood, went on white, dried clear and they cautioned about doing thin coats to prevent a thick film which would peel. Though I didn't have to use it as often, it sure was more work as the deck had to be stripped of any old finish before putting down new. Soap and water clean up.
That said...you'll likely get better advice and products at a paint store. They'll know best what works in your area.
Me? Few wood decks out here...and I just use Thompsons for outdoor wood projects along with the green copper stuff on the ground contact points to keep bugs away. No real rot or mildew/mold problems in 100°, 10-15% humidity conditions.
#4
Forum Topic Moderator
Oil base deck stains tend to suck into the wood deeper than latex or waterborne stains. In the southeast they don't hold up all that great but that shouldn't be an issue in your locale. I agree with talking to the folks at your local paint store [not paint dept] along with asking friends/neighbors what works well for them.