Deck ledger board installation

This house had a deck and deck joists were sistered with the house joists. The previous owner removed the deck and left the joists going to through the wall because they are too long. Can I install a ledger board over the house joists using two longer bolts on each joist ? I also, would add to it four DTT2Z from the new deck joists to the house joists to make sure everything keep together.

 

Welcome to the forums.

Not the pro in this forum but I do know that you cannot lag bolt your ledger board to the ends of those joists. That is not an accepted method of attachment.

 

First, I think you need to make a horizontal saw cut above the joists and install galvanized steel or copper flashing. That will protect the joist ends from water damage.

Building code is pretty specific that you cannot support a deck ledger with brick veneer. And building codes and inspectors have become very strict regarding deck supports and how they are attached to the house. So, do your research and make sure it's done right, even if you hire a pro.


You can use a Simpson BVLZ bracket to handle the vertical loads and also a DTT2 bracket for the lateral loads. As you can imagine. It's not a easy situation and you certainly would need to discuss your solution with your inspectors to make sure it's what they want to see.

 

Pilot Dane, I understand what you meant. But, in this case the vertical load is not on the bricks, it is on the house joists that come through the bricks. That is why I want to use them and also add DTT2Z. Anyways, I assume I have to have a talk with my inspector.

Thank you!

 

Cut/remove the bricks where the ledger will go and install proper flashing with the brackets.

 

I vote for a free standing deck.

 

I'm not sure all the responders understand the nature of the question.

Im assuming the cut ends of the joists are cantilevered floor joists. As such, the support of the brick/stone is kind of irrelevant and is not the main issue here. This is similar to trying to attach to a cantilevered box bay or chimney, which is typically also not allowed by code.

But the cantilever is only 4-5" or so. Depending on the size of the deck you might be able to get it approved *IF* you get a structural engineer to design, stamp and sign a plan detailing exactly how to do it... and as mentioned flashing would need to be cut into the stone which would likely be inadequate, since flashing should really be incorporated into the house WRB, not just stuck into a horizontal kerf in the mortar joint.

It also doesnt fall into the category of prohibiting the bolting of a ledger to the stone veneer, because that rule is there to prevent the air space behind the stone from being crushed when a ledger is bolted down. The cantilevered ends of the joists will prevent that from crushing if they have been trimmed flush.

The question is whether they will allow attachment of a ledger to the cantilevered ends. And it doesn't matter what we think, what matters is what the inspector decides. But a design by a structural engineer would sway things in your favor if you don't want any posts under the ledger, and that ledger may need to be doubled like a beam.

And that 4" vent is a problem that also needs to be noted on the design.

 

XSleeper, I called the city inspector and he came over to take a look at it. He told me he would pass the inspection if I use at least 3 DTT2Z because the blocks between the end of the joists can't support the lateral loading once the deck is 10x15. BUT, he said that maybe he is not the inspector coming when I finish the deck and the other inspector maybe doesn't like that. So, I am really thinking to cut/remove the bricks and put a tripled ledger board in.

 

That's a good possibility. A mason should be able to cut out the stone and salvage it, clean it up and reuse it. And opening up that pocket will help ensure the flashing is done well. You'll want to cut the joists back 1 1/2" behind the outer edge of the top plate so that you can install a rim joist in that pocket, flash the bottom of the stone under the ledger and above the ledger, waterproof the rim joist and then triple the ledger and bolt it all together, and the 3 DTT2Z's will be the good idea to bolt and hold all those layers together, since at least 2 are required as the lateral load device.