Problems cutting new laminate countertop with router and flush cut bit
#1
09-04-16, 07:57 PM
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Problems cutting new laminate countertop with router and flush cut bit
Hello, I am refinishing my countertops with new sheets of laminate. I installed the edges and used the flush cut bit in a router in order to cut the edge trim flush with the top of the counter. It worked wonderfully. I then rough cut the counter top, glued in place, and I began cutting the edges with the same flush cut bit i had used before, and it started digging into laminate instead of cutting flush. It seems as though if the roller on the end of the bit was just 1/16 of an inch wider, it would do the job perfectly and i could simply sand down the edge to smooth it flush. Has anyone else had this problem? Or know a solution, maybe a different bit would work better? Any help would be greatly appreciated, i have a short amount of time to get this done as part of a condition for selling my house, thank you in advance
-Tyler
-Tyler
#2
09-04-16, 08:09 PM
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I have experienced the same thing occasionally, and it has almost always been the result of "chatter" on the router bit. For instance, if the laminate is left more than 1/2" long- or maybe a couple inches too long- the bit must router it's way through the full width of the cutter, and it sets up a vibration that's not helpful. Its much better if the laminate is maybe only 3/8" long... that way the bit is cutting on only one side and the waste is quickly expelled.
The flush trim bit is best set "barely deep enough" to cut the laminate. You can also put several layers of masking tape on the face so that your roller bearing is riding on the tape, not on the laminate face.... this gives you a little cushion to hopefully avoid this problem. And then you generally change bits and finish the edge with a 22.5 or 45 degree bevel. A little hand filing and easing edges with fine sandpaper and you're done.
The flush trim bit is best set "barely deep enough" to cut the laminate. You can also put several layers of masking tape on the face so that your roller bearing is riding on the tape, not on the laminate face.... this gives you a little cushion to hopefully avoid this problem. And then you generally change bits and finish the edge with a 22.5 or 45 degree bevel. A little hand filing and easing edges with fine sandpaper and you're done.
#3
09-05-16, 07:43 AM
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I think the OP is trying to cut the wood trim (overhang) flush with the top of the counter...
If I'm right, I have never done this before, although a flush trim bit should work.
Normally when I apply wood edging to a laminate top the wood requires no trimming.
If I'm right, I have never done this before, although a flush trim bit should work.
Normally when I apply wood edging to a laminate top the wood requires no trimming.
#4
09-05-16, 07:53 AM
Try pushing the bit in the opposite direction - i.e. work left to right instead of right to left.
Also, make sure you are perfectly 90 degrees to your top with the whole router firmly seated on the surface.
Also, make sure you are perfectly 90 degrees to your top with the whole router firmly seated on the surface.
