How to close the gap between bathtub and wall

whats the correct way to close the gap between the right side of the tub and the wall?

extra cement board/ply/drywall? i plan on coating durarock wall with red guard

thanks

 

I'd fur it out with whatever size lumber is appropriate.

 

Yea, you don't have enough room for something useful like a shelf so I'd just fur the wall out to the size needed. Since you will be furing the wall it's a good time to make sure the walls are plumb which will make installing a surround or tile easier (two birds with one stone).

 

don't know all the lingo here... If i'm furring out the wall, am i building it out with additional 2x4's or actually laying durarock on top of plywood to build it out. also am i just doing the build out for the area that will be tiled or do i have to bring the entire wall out?

 

I would measure to see if the window is centered between the walls. If it is, shim both side walls equally. If it isnt, shove the tub all the way to one side, and just shim one wall. Rip 2x4s on a table saw to fit between the tub and the wall studs, then nail or screw them on top of the studs. If the flange on the tub does not allow the cement board to lay flat, you may want to add a shim for that too. Keep the cement board above the tub surface 1/2" or so.

 

that makes sense... as indicated in the first post, I'm only concerned about the right wall. the plumbing is in place on the left side, so only need to worry about right wall. the tube is perfectly level and wall seem to be as well. does it make sense to just fur out the tiled area or do i have to extend it down the length of the wall. thanks for you help.

 

The entire wall gets furred out, not just part of it.

 

I'm concerned that your new rough in valve body may be out too far. Can you give us a close up of that. If so, may want to fur out the wall that gave you the most grief on the supply side.

 

I agree with Chris, that the head wall needs to be spaced and the heel wall needs to be flush, then fur out the head wall to help hide a little of the valve body.

 

Here's an improved picture.



Normally it is best to have access to the faucet and drain from behind so if you need to make repairs you can without ripping out tile. What's on the other side of the plumbing wall?

 

I blew up the pic as well Ray, and the detail was not enough to answer my question. Normal rough in for modern single handle valves has the back of the valve sitting 1 1/2" off the back of the cavity. Mounted to a 2x4 set horizontally across the cavity.

 

Isn't the front of the black plaster ring supposed to be flush with the finished surface of the tile?

 

How cow. As careful as i thought i was being, not sure why this is wrong. Obviously i didn't measure correctly. just finished getting all the plumbing put in last night. that sucks. Well at least i have some room to correct it. the valve actually has no room to move into the wall, so this was inevitable.
unfortunately this bathroom sits in a dormer, so there is access to the tub train, but not behind valve.
i guess i would have figured this out after i put up the first piece of durarock
I'm sure ill have more questions, but everyone here has helped me immensely. thank goodness for the internet or this would take forever.

 

To be honest, I have never used the plastic ring. It goes in the garbage straight out of the box. I have always just mounted it to a 2x4 pushed all the way back in the cavity.

 

If the valve body is mounted on an outside wall you want to keep it as close to the heated room as possible to prevent freezing. Do you have room in your drain plumbing to move the tub to the right so you can fur out the faucet wall?

 

i'm replacing existing plumbing, so after 60years and no freezing, i think I'm safe. i need to buy another pvc kit for the tub, but i shouldn't have a problem moving an in out.

 

what size trowel to use for 3x6 subway tile?

how thick will the mortar base be when applies correctly?

trying to figure out exact thickness of wall.

thanks

 

1/4 x 3/16 v-notch trowel will work just fine

No need to back butter just give em a good "squish in"

 

getting ready to install the durarock. just wanted to get the details on how much above the vertical lip of the tub it should be. 1/4? also, i plan on using red guard after i put up boards. If the cement board is above the lip of the tub, how do you go about sealing that and the tub with RG?
is this an accurate illustration?

 

Have Merged your recent posts. Please refrain from starting multiple threads on the same project. It confuses those trying to give direction.

 

You will want to set the cbu directly on the lip of the tub/shower. Your tile can jump the gap between that and the curved surface of the unit. It keeps water from wicking up. Using RedGard, you will only seal the cbu if you want. Some think it is necessary, and it is not a bad idea, but some think it is overkill to do more than the seams and cubbies.

The illustration is so spot on, that I plan on stealing it as it is a perfect description of what you want to do. No RedGard on the tub

 

Other Thoughts, If you are planning on installing a sliding door, make sure you add sufficient nailing surfaces tothe front and rear leading edges of the tub. If using a shower curtain, ad blocking to the upper areas and make note of its height for later reference.

To fur the wall out, I often just rip down strips of plywood and nail to the studs. Take detailed measurements of where your pipes are located so you don't run an errant screw through them.

 

because i am planning on doing the redguard i didn't put any vapor barrier behind the CB. in this case would you then recommend RGing the entire CB wall? thank you.

 

Yeah, leaving out important steps causes one to drop back and punt. You need a vapor barrier, and RedGard is as close as you will get at this stage.

As Chris mentioned, make sure you have adequate nailers to attach each of meeting backer/sheetrock. I have been to 3 brand new houses in the past month or so where the framers did not install any framing at the shower/tub joint with the rest of the room. Sheet rockers just rocked into space and left it. We have to go in and install nailers.

 

i didn't necessarily leave out the step, it was intentional based on the information out there. i've yet to come across a topic for bathroom installs, that everyone (pros) agrees on. This makes getting the correct info difficult, at least for me. I only have one sheet of dura rock up at this point. I have plenty of studs to to screw to. thanks

 

ok so im installing the durarock and i'm noticing that the window frame in the bathroom is 3/8" (although the window itself is fairly straight) of from bottom to top. is there any tolerance with this when doing tile work around window. my inside window is now out and i'm trying to figure out if there is any way to get this thing straightened out.

 

If the replacement window is straight but the original window frame is crooked, use shims to set your backer board so that all comes out correctly along the small axis that will surround the window.

 

just to be clear the frame is leaning to the right. my plan in to tile up to the inside edge of the frame and then have a tile on the inside of the frame. the inside of the frame will be tiled. since the window is square i guess i could just ad a little bit more mortar behind tile as i go up the frame to make up the difference in the tiled frame that way the tile would be square with the window? Could i just plane down the frame and run the durarock over the frame and up to the outside of the window?

 

Assuming the "out of square" is the same on the other side of the window. I would rip a large shim that goes under the backerboard that goes from 3/8" at the top to zero on the bottom. Cut another exactly the same and orientate it opposite with the 3/8" on the bottom to zero on the top for the other side of the window. A continuous shim is needed as the backer board will flex on you and create a wavy mess.

Thinset will sag so trying to float on a vertical surface is a challenge.

 

i don't think we are on the same page? placing a shim under the board doesn't solve my issue. the amount that the frame sits out from the studs into the room is even. as it is now, i would have to cut the left side of the CB on an angle for it to fit flush against frame. If your correct, then i don't understand your description.

 

Do you see where you have written 3/8".... and 0"? Remove any window stop that is currently on the jamb (it wont be needed) and replace it with a shim... on the right it will be 3/8 at the top, 0 at bottom. On left it will be 0 on top, 3/8 on bottom. Then install a strip of 1/2" cement board on top of that and everything will appear straight... 30 7/8" on top / 30 7/8 on bottom.

 

I don't care about the framing, I care about the window. If the replacement window is straight and the original window frame is crooked, you adjust the window framing by adding a long shim (full length of the window) to take make what you are doing straight and plumb to the window. If it is off on the upper right, then it is equally off on the lower left. 2 shims that go from 3/8" down to zero the length of the window. That squares up the framing that will be under your cement board.

 

can i use some sort of adhesive to bond a small 1" piece of cement board to wood? board is to thin to put a screw through.

is it necessary to cover this outer edge of frame with durarock if i plan on wrapping the entire edge and covering it with redguard.

the shims are cut, but i haven't put them in yet. trying to figure out how the CB will wrap around frame.

 

Have the wall cement board end up short of the corner and the thin strip of cement board come out the extra 1/2 so it is not as small width wise. Predrill with a mason bit and put up using 1 1/4" galvanized roofing nails. Don't over pound in the nails so you don't crack the cement board.

How is the level on the top and bottom of the window? Do those need shims as well?

 

window frame and widow are level.

the CB and wood in photo are all on same plane. if i put a piece of CB over the wood it will stick out above the piece of CB on the right side of window.

 

so update on this issue framing and tiling window frame.

So to create more of edge on the inside of the window and stool, take a look at the comments on the attached photos.

 

Sorry, I don't understand your question. You use a bullnose tile to make the transition to the 90 degree turn to the window. Whether it is the bullnose on the wall tile or the window turn, I don't understand a 45 degree turn at all. 90 degree transitions are all that are needed.

 

czizzi, not sure if you saw my response to your post from last night?

the only way to have the tile from the wall meet the bullnose tile of the inside of the window would be to tile over the wooden frame (i would image its not a good idea to tile over the wood? ) The CB and the frame lie on the same plane. To fix that i was going to lay 1" wide CB on top of the surrounding frame and cover it with the radial tile. the radial tile would have to be cut 45° in the corners to be able to frame it out. i could then put the bullnose tiles around the inside of the frame.

.....not sure if just taping around the existing frame and apply red guard would solve the issue, it would make tiling it a lot easier.

 

Use a mesh alkaline proof tape and thinset to embed it around the corner and coat it with RedGard. I would not add bulk to the set up.

 

You can pick up a 6" wide roll of kerdi membrane and wrap the corners with it so all you have is the 90 degree to work with and the wood is removed from the picture. If you have large format wall tile, you go around the frame as needed and dress it out from the inside with the bullnose.