install vanity over existing tile?
#1
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install vanity over existing tile?
I don't want to redo the flooring, but I"m not sure if I can just leave the existing tile in place. The problem is it seems the tile was laid AFTER the vanity so I'm not sure if I can simply leave it in place and just put the new vanity on top of the tile. The bathroom vanity is pretty small and I was hoping to purchase on slight larger vanity that way it would sit on top of the existing tile.
Is that possible or do I have to redo the flooring since the tile goes around the vanity in place now?
Is that possible or do I have to redo the flooring since the tile goes around the vanity in place now?
#2
As long as the new one is larger, it's not a problem. But you may have to scribe the bottom of the vanity to match any irregularities in the tile, such as if the floor isn't perfectly level.
#4
Would think that you could find a cabinet slightly wider, but the depth will most likely remain the same. Cover the transition with shoe molding.
#5
Scribe is a fancy word for "trace, then cut to fit". So let's say you set the vanity on the floor and it is so out of level that it tips away from the wall.
Well you are going to want to screw the cabinet so it fits tight to the wall, right? So what I would do is push the cabinet back tight to the wall... then insert some tapered cedar shims under any corner of the vanity that is not sitting on the tile. Set a level across the back of the vanity and adjust your shims to level it left to right. Again, make sure it is tight to the wall.
Once you do that, you might find that each corner is shimmed up a different amount. Measure the largest gap between the tile and the floor. Let's say it's 1/4". Cut a shim so that the fat end is 1/4" thick, put a sharp pencil on top of the shim, lay the shim on the floor, and drag the shim and pencil all the way around the base of the vanity. (Scribing it).
What this does is it transfers the floor angles onto the vanity. Then you can flip the vanity over, score that line deeply with a straight edge and a sharp utility knife and then trim it or carefully belt sand up to that line. You can then get rid of all the shims, and when you set the vanity down it will match the floor perfectly.
If the floor is nice and level you won't have to worry about that. Or like czizzi said, you could just put base shoe around the whole thing to hide the shims + any gap. Whatever works.
Well you are going to want to screw the cabinet so it fits tight to the wall, right? So what I would do is push the cabinet back tight to the wall... then insert some tapered cedar shims under any corner of the vanity that is not sitting on the tile. Set a level across the back of the vanity and adjust your shims to level it left to right. Again, make sure it is tight to the wall.
Once you do that, you might find that each corner is shimmed up a different amount. Measure the largest gap between the tile and the floor. Let's say it's 1/4". Cut a shim so that the fat end is 1/4" thick, put a sharp pencil on top of the shim, lay the shim on the floor, and drag the shim and pencil all the way around the base of the vanity. (Scribing it).
What this does is it transfers the floor angles onto the vanity. Then you can flip the vanity over, score that line deeply with a straight edge and a sharp utility knife and then trim it or carefully belt sand up to that line. You can then get rid of all the shims, and when you set the vanity down it will match the floor perfectly.
If the floor is nice and level you won't have to worry about that. Or like czizzi said, you could just put base shoe around the whole thing to hide the shims + any gap. Whatever works.
#6
I don't like to install cabinets over tile.
The main problem is the leveling shims will slip away easily and are hard to trim off without moving them.
Scribe means to eliminate the shims and have the cabinet bottom match the contour of the floor:
Level the cabinet using shims
Set a compass at the highest point after shimming. Hold the compass at a consistent angle.
Make a few practice sweeps at the highest level and then trace the floor around the front and sides.
I cut the pencil line with a jigsaw and am not too concerned with scribing the back of the cabinet to the floor.
If you don't plan to install base or quarter round, score your cut lines first with a utility knife to prevent splintering.
The main problem is the leveling shims will slip away easily and are hard to trim off without moving them.
Scribe means to eliminate the shims and have the cabinet bottom match the contour of the floor:
Level the cabinet using shims
Set a compass at the highest point after shimming. Hold the compass at a consistent angle.
Make a few practice sweeps at the highest level and then trace the floor around the front and sides.
I cut the pencil line with a jigsaw and am not too concerned with scribing the back of the cabinet to the floor.
If you don't plan to install base or quarter round, score your cut lines first with a utility knife to prevent splintering.
#8
At least our answers are similar. LOL 
I'm assuming he doesn't have a compass, and/or it might be harder for a newbie to use one accurately.

I'm assuming he doesn't have a compass, and/or it might be harder for a newbie to use one accurately.
#9
I'm assuming he doesn't have a compass, and/or it might be harder for a newbie to use one accurately.
That's why you make the big bucks
