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Tiling angled hip rafter corner - finishing edge

Tiling angled hip rafter corner - finishing edge

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  #1  
Old 02-28-19, 12:27 AM
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Tiling angled hip rafter corner - finishing edge

I am looking for best solutions or tips on the best way to accurately tile the corner on the angled wall/ceiling in my master bath project. The tile will meet at an obtuse inside angle under a hip roof and will go approx. halfway up angled part of wall (see pics).
-Should I lay one side where it meets in corner and them carefully bevel and angle the adjoining wall tile? Is there an easier way or better solution?

I am using 12x24 porcelain field tile
 
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  #2  
Old 02-28-19, 05:04 AM
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First I think your sheetrock should be re-done. You have no support for the sheets in the corner, a critical area. The edges of your sheetrock should be securely secured to framing and not hanging free trying to bridge the gap. I fear there will be slight movement of your backing that will cause trouble with your tile and grout causing cracking.

As long as you are at it I would not use normal sheetrock in a bathroom especially when hanging large tiles overhead. I would use Hardie Backer or cement board. You can get away with it on a kitchen backsplash where the tile is vertical but hanging from an overhanging/sloped ceiling is just asking for trouble. Don't forget, the face of sheetrock is nothing more than a sheet of paper. Your thinset may stick to the face of the paper but the paper can split rather easily and peel away.

Finally, tiling is going to be an exercise in precision tile work. Depending on the thickness of your tile and how proper you want to be I see two ways to go. Easiest is to put the uncut edge along the obtuse angle. Butt the tiles together at their bottom at the wall which will leave a angled grout joint on the surface. Do NOT do this if the edges of your tile are glazed as the grout likely won't stick but you could grout that joint with color matched caulk but it will likely be subtly different. More proper would be to under cut the tiles at that edge. It will be difficult because of the sharp top surface of the tile. That fine edge will want to crack and flake and your cuts will need to be nice and straight as any variance in your grout width will be quite visible.

If you want to go a different route you can see if a pencil tile can placed at the obtuse angle. You can then have the tile from your two ceiling planes butt against the pencil tile. The pencil tile doesn't have to be installed on the peak of that obtuse angle but can be right next to it. Just position it so your best grout joint will be on the bottom.
 
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Old 02-28-19, 05:12 AM
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I would tile the angled side first, that way the cuts don't have to fit the wall perfectly, since the strait side will cover the first 1/4"
 
  #4  
Old 03-01-19, 04:43 AM
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It appears the corner of the studded walls is not centered on the hip rafter or is the orientation of the first picture tricking me? Why is there shims under the drywall marked tile? I think there are framing issues here needing correction before moving into tiling.
 
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