Recommendation for tiles for wheelchair accessible walk in shower floor
Hello All,
We're in the middle of obtaining estimates to replace our existing bathtub with a walk-in-shower that will be wheelchair accessible. The estimates will be from a contractor who hires the sub trades (tiles, drywall, plumbing, etc.) to do the work. This walk-in-shower will be wheelchair accessible. But we would like to understand which areas should we be aware of so to avoid problems down the road once the work is completed. Problems like a leak in the pan/base and or cracked tiles due to wear and tear caused by rolling over the tiles with the wheelchair.
We have an estimate that will design the shower floor without a curb (curbless) and the shower area will be sloped toward the existing floor drain. What type of floor tiles should we choose and which manufacturer of the tile is ideal for this type of work ? I understand that using tiny square tiles (rather than large ones) would work best and that they should be non-slip, water proof and water resistant. Also is there a requirement for the drain to be relocated or the existing fixtures to be replaced with newer design ? Should the entire drywall and tiles surrounding the bathtub be demolished and replaced with panels then new drywall and then new tiles ? Some of the estimates we have gotten plan to build a custom pan/base out of mortar. Will this work and last a long time due to shifting of the house ?
That's pretty much all points and comments and questions which I have at the moment but I'll likely have some more as others read this post and post their comments and questions.
So the questions you ask are no different for a wheelchair capable shower vs any normal shower.
The base, the drains, the tiles are not specific to a wheelchair system. If you want the best shower one installed with membrane (Prova/Ditra) is the best, it guarantees no leaks.
Some of the estimates we have gotten
Looks like you've gotten some information, what are they advising?
Thanks for the post. The thing is that we're getting estimates which are in the $14K-$17K range including taxes and a couple so far which are less than $10K (such as $5,300 and $7,500 including taxes). The ones which are in the $14K-$17K range have said that they hire only license trade workers and they pay like $$40-50/hour and will take 1-2 weeks to complete the work. The cheaper estimates don't need to move the plumbing (so they may save hiring a certified plumber) and will be re-using the same spout, shower head and grab bars etc. The cheaper estimates also will take only 3-4 days to complete the work.
I do have one question about the membrane (Prova/Ditra) you mentioned. Is it made by Schluter ? Does it come with a lifetime warranty against leakage due to cracking caused by manufacturing defects or due to house shifting ?
Thanks
Victor
Last edited by Victor43; 08-07-23 at 08:46 AM.
Reason: forgot to add detail
There really isn't, sooo many variables between locations that one persons estimate may be totally irrelevant to yours. Best to get multiple quotes and talk to prior customers .
I was sort of expecting this, but I didn't think it would be so bad.
We just had solid hardwood installed (3/4"). Kitchen originally had vinyl, which built the floor up by 1/4". Stove was half on the vinyl, half on plywood. Installers wanted to run the wood under all the appliances, so we did so with the various appliances (except the dishwasher).
Anyhow, the kitchen island is where our stove is. It's a glass top radiant slide in. I'm doing final trim work (baseboard and all molding) - my woodworking experience and other skills are good to very good - but I lack experience with this sort of stuff.
I can only think of four solutions:
1) [b]Route a channel in the hardwood for the feet[/b] - this will be challenging to say the least, channels will accumulate crud
2) [b]Lift island by 3/4" using scrap material from cutoff'[/b]s - this will give me a little bit of adjustment on the feet. Counter will now be 3/4 higher than the rest of the cabinets. [b]This appeals to me the most[/b], I only see four brackets holding it down. It's also the riskiest if there are hidden brackets - but I don't think so - or if I damage it raising it.
3) [b]Add a 3/4" spacer between the countertop and cabinet.[/b] This one is annoying because I'll have to stain a strip of wood to match closely (but not exactly). It's probably the simplest solution.
4) [b]Install a butcher block countertop.[/b] This was suggested to me, but I think it would carry with it all sorts of maintenance issues down the line - cost a lot, and get ugly after a year of use.
Sadly, I only realized this now. If I had known I'd have to do this, I would have pulled the island and made everyone's job easier - mine and the installers.Read More
hi all!
wanted to get opinions on whether i should go with a 30/31" or 36" vanity for a bathroom remodel. the previous vanity was 33" wide. unfortunately, most of the vanities out there now are either 30/31" or 36" wide.
if i go with the 36" wide it only leaves about 5" inches between the toilet and the side of the vanity. i'm not a big person so this doesn't feel cramped to me but thinking bigger people might feel this area is too small.
if i go with the 30 or 31" wide vanity, there definitely would be room between the toilet and side of the vanity. about 10-11 inches. but unfortunately, the counter top would be a lot smaller and with the water supply and drain coming from the side wall, it's hard to find a vanity with drawers that will work (i'm going to have to make a hole on the right side of the vanity for the water supply and drain)
what would you guys go with? 36 or 30/31?
ps: make sure to pick your tenants carefully. i screwed up and they trashed the place, was always late on rent, didn't pay the last month. now i'm remodeling and selling. lol
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