new construction or replacement windows?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
new construction or replacement windows?
I have an attic that about my garage that I am turning into living space (3 bedrooms), it currently has no windows and is unfinished 2x6 construction. have have limited experience and am learning as I go.
I had priced out windows and had settled on the American craftsman 70 series line from home depot, new construction, was about 351 a window. To humor my wife, we went into the local bargain outlet and I saw American Craftsman 70 series windows for 99 a piece but they are replacement windows, no nailing fin, no extension jams but they are energy star rated.
I really do not know which way to go, if I get the new construction windows I can get my windows molded together that need to be molded together, I get the extension jams and the j channel filler with a total of around 3500 or I can get the replacement windows for a little over a grand.
I feel like there is a right way to do things and that new construction windows would be that way but this is a substantial savings.....does it really matter which way I go? think my codes officer will frown upon this?(haven't been able to reach him) Should I spend the extra money for new construction windows because that's the right way to do it?
thank you for your help.
I had priced out windows and had settled on the American craftsman 70 series line from home depot, new construction, was about 351 a window. To humor my wife, we went into the local bargain outlet and I saw American Craftsman 70 series windows for 99 a piece but they are replacement windows, no nailing fin, no extension jams but they are energy star rated.
I really do not know which way to go, if I get the new construction windows I can get my windows molded together that need to be molded together, I get the extension jams and the j channel filler with a total of around 3500 or I can get the replacement windows for a little over a grand.
I feel like there is a right way to do things and that new construction windows would be that way but this is a substantial savings.....does it really matter which way I go? think my codes officer will frown upon this?(haven't been able to reach him) Should I spend the extra money for new construction windows because that's the right way to do it?
thank you for your help.
#2
Unless you plan on building the sill, frame, stops, etc... to put the replacement window into, you will want the new construction window with a nailing fin that can be flashed, taped to your wrb. Also because sticking a replacement window into a rough opening and then caulking around it, or putting stops around all 4 sides is no way to install and flash a window.
#3
Member
I'm with xsleeper on this one!
Just a really bad idea.
I've worked on many a wall where people have cheaped out and tried do it that way because they "got a deal".
Are those new windows egress rated?
There's a whole lot of codes involved, permits and inspections needed for what your trying to do, hope you have that covered.
What size are the floor joist and spans?
Reason I ask is if it was built with no windows then likely it was not built for living space.
Just a really bad idea.
I've worked on many a wall where people have cheaped out and tried do it that way because they "got a deal".
Are those new windows egress rated?
There's a whole lot of codes involved, permits and inspections needed for what your trying to do, hope you have that covered.
What size are the floor joist and spans?
Reason I ask is if it was built with no windows then likely it was not built for living space.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
thanks for the replies guys, it helps, I feel better spending the money knowing it is the right way to do it rather then spending the money because I think its the right way to do it. this attic was built for intended living space, I had plans drawn up when I built the garage. I have been doing a little bit here and there when I get some extra money.
#5
Like Joe mentioned, bedroom windows must meet egress requirements (5.7 sq ft clear opening) as well as other size minimums/maximums. Generally that will mean a casement window or a very large double hung or slider. At least one window must be egress in each bedroom where an exterior door is not present.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Ok in regards to the ingress/egress, the engineer calls for two Anderson 3046 windows molded together, which one by its self does not meet the ingress/egress requirements but when I get them molded together they will? my plans had been approved by our codes officer 3 or so years ago.
#7
The 3046 is an egress window. See: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...PERfhX9u1Z3M9A
When 2 windows are joined together, they are called common "mulled", or mulled for short. A single 3046 meets egress too.
When 2 windows are joined together, they are called common "mulled", or mulled for short. A single 3046 meets egress too.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Your right, I had glanced at a quickly at a chart from Anderson listing the egress windows and I skipped over it. thank you, this has been very helpfull