Window glazing compound alternative?

Does anyone know of any good alternatives to using glazing compound on a window frame? I've been trying to use a putty knife to smooth out the glazing compound along the glass/frame and the knife keeps pulling the putty off.

I've tried using different putty knives; sanding the knife; dipping it in water; applying a light layer of linseed oil to the blade; all to no avail.

I've applied glazing to windows in the past and never had any problems, the putty always smoothed out easily and looked nice when the job was finished.

 

Is the glazing compound old? Is the sash clean? I like to roll up the glazing before pressing it onto the sash. Depending on the brand of glazing compound it's sometimes beneficial to add a fit drops of thinner to the glazing and mix it in.

 

The glazing compound is new; I knead and roll the glazing before pressing it onto the frame/window; the sash and window are clean.

The compound I'm using is DAP '33', would you recommend adding thinner and if so what type of thinner?

 

Mineral spirits is what I'd use although most any solvent should work including gas - you only need a few drops!!

 

The trick is to make sure the glazing compound is soft enough so it's easy to apply, a clean stiff putty knife and apply enough even pressure as you smooth out it out.

 

There are other items. Red Devil makes a caulking gun glazing compound you can use.
BTW...Linseed oil is the proper stuff to use to reconstitute dry glazing compound. You kneed the compound like it was bread dough. Then roll it into a string and force it into the corner. Using 45 degree angle smooth it out. BTW...did you use glazing points to secure the glass?

 

Never been a fan of DAP 33. Hard to apply and takes way too long to set firm enough so it's not damaged when painting or handling the sash. Try Sarco Type M; you'll be glad you did.

 

I've fond of SWP's 66 Glazing, it's not oily like the others I've used .... keeps my fingers cleaner

 

@johnam Yes, I kneaded the glazing until soft and used a clean putty knife to smooth it out w/ even pressure. I've caulked several windows over the years, never had any problems until now.

@ Norm201 I tried using linseed oil and the putty still pulls off. Yes, the glass is secured to the frame with glazing points. Thanks for the caulk recommendation. I'll probably try another brand of glazing compound first and if that doesn't work I'll give the Red Devil caulk a try. Does the caulk last as long as glazing compound?

@ CarbideTipped I'll see if they carry the Sarco Type M at my local hardware store. Thanks.

@marksr While I'm at the hardware store I'll see if they carry the SWP Glazing. Thanks.

 

You have to go to sherwin williams to get the 66 Glazing.
Caulking can last as long as glazing but it won't hold the glass tight like glazing will. If the glass is secured with glazing points, caulking is a quick easy way to get the job done. IMO it doesn't look as nice as glazing. Not sure if you were asking about latex caulk or glazing in a caulking tube. The latter is pretty much the same as the glazing in a tub - just costs more.

 

For anyone who may be experiencing the same problem, I ended up going to Sherwin-Williams and getting some of their '66' glazing and it did the trick.
They must have changed the formula in the DAP 33 because I've used it in the past without having it pull off.

I had hoped to compare the Sarco Type M to the '66' but OSH doesn't carry it and I didn't have time to check at Ace or any of the Big Boxes.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions.