Andersen Casement Window Frame Rotten
#1
07-03-18, 12:28 PM
Andersen Casement Window Frame Rotten
My house was built in 1994 with Andersen wood casement windows. On many of the windows the bottom section of the window's wood flame is rotten. Apparently water was able to get to them over the years. With the wood being rotten the screws cannot be tightened to hold the bottom casement track in place. Hence the windows bind when I try to open or close them. The wood frame is encased in vinyl. I have tried various methods to keep the track in-place including tightening the screws, using longer screws and gluing the track to the sill with construction adhesive. Nothing I have tried works. I would appreciate any suggestions to fix this problem, especially those that have worked. I am trying to avoid replacing the windows. Thanks in advance for your help.
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#3
07-05-18, 11:42 AM
Thanks for your speedy reply. Apparently I did not explain my situation well enough. There is no problem with the sash. The board that supports and is below the sash is the one that is rotten. It is the bottom board of the main frame. It is hidden from view due to the vinyl covering.
#4
07-05-18, 03:57 PM
Yeah that's not a replaceable part. Time for new windows. About all you could do to repair is drill or chisel out a large hole or channel... fill with epoxy. Then drill new holes in that.
#7
07-05-18, 04:10 PM
I had Andersen double hung windows in my early 1970's built home (I'm second owner) that lasted over 40 years. Never a leak or rot. However the sashes did separate and Andersen repaired them. About 5 years ago I opted for brand new windows through Renewal by Andersen. Very pleased so far.
#9
07-07-18, 06:33 PM
There are a million kinds and it depends where you shop, and how much you want to pay. But one that many favor is the Abatron Wood Restoration kit. You should be able to find it online.
#10
07-08-18, 05:08 AM
The best windows in the world are only as good as the installation.
My Mom has similar situation, wood window just slapped in, no flashing, not membrane, after about 10 years I get the pleasure to repair/replace.
I have had luck repairing a couple windows by chiseling out the sill plate and replacing with pieces of poly wood.
It's time consuming as each window will have different level of rot, different shapes, but ultimately with time, lots of caulk we will squeak out a few more years before they will have to be replaced.
My Mom has similar situation, wood window just slapped in, no flashing, not membrane, after about 10 years I get the pleasure to repair/replace.
I have had luck repairing a couple windows by chiseling out the sill plate and replacing with pieces of poly wood.
It's time consuming as each window will have different level of rot, different shapes, but ultimately with time, lots of caulk we will squeak out a few more years before they will have to be replaced.
