Sliding door on Patio how to fix frame/molding/insulation

How should I fix this sliding door frame? molding?
I think I will have to seal it ? or replace molding?

 

Yikes. Well, depends how good of a job you want to do. Just putting new trim on, it's going to just keep rotting out behind there.

The best thing to do would be to unzip the vinyl siding above the door. (Malco Sideswiper) And take the vinyl siding around the door down. Number it so you can put it back on where it was.

You might also replace those drywall screws in the fin with some exterior screws that are meant to be used outside.

It looks like water has been getting behind the siding from above... a picture from farther away might show us why. You will probably need to replace some sheathing too once you get the siding off and take a look at how bad it really is behind there.

But I would put housewrap on... that clearly got skipped... then use flashing tape to tape the nailing fin to the housewrap. Then put new brickmould on (they make it in vinyl), a z-flashing over the top brickmould, tape the z-flashing to the housewrap, then put the siding and j channel back up.

 

thank you for your reply.

Many words I didn't know before ..

Is there a youtube video there? what keyword should I search? or exact step by step instructions somewhere ..
I will be able to post a new full view pic on Saturday.

 

I'm thinking that the deck above is playing a factor in the way water is getting in behind the siding and causing issues with your slider pictured. I would also venture to guess based on this install, that you also have issues with the slider that leads out to the deck above. May want to provide some pictures of that door as well. Lack of flashing at the deck level most likely is causing the water infiltration. Certainly a more complicated fix than may be apparent from what you have given us so far.

 

There's no Z molding above the molding at the top of the door.
Can not see any window and door tape around the frame.
If this was my job that whole door would be coming out, siding needs to be removed so you can replace all the rotten wood.
When replacing the brick molding use PVC not Wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpKpJW-ZWnI
It would be nice to see another picture standing in the yard so we can see what's above that door.

 

I have attahed more pics.

 

I would venture to guess that the ledger isn't flashed. You would need to remove siding above the deck to find out if you can't clearly see it. Also wondering if the housewrap got skipped. A lot of houses got built without it back before they made it mandatory.

 

you mean above the deck or above the door?

I bought this siding removal tool, as per suggestion above, but not sure what to look for .. do you have example pic, ref. url or something for me to see?

 

The ledger is the 2x10 that is bolted to the house. The top edge of the ledger is supposed to have a metal flashing behind the siding, over the ledger. If it's not there, water can run behind the ledger and rot the wall. So you might need to remove the bottom piece of siding that is above the deck to see if there is a flashing there or not. (unless you can pry it up and see it).

All you need to do it go to Youtube and type in Malco sideswiper if you need to know how to use it.

 

I tried to open the siding using the tool, after watching vid. but in my sidings there were no overlaps or opening, it seemed that it was nailed, I tried real hard to un hook/lock it, but not enought to break, it..


I also saw some water stains inside the door , on basement celing where the deck is and right above the patio door.


but, now i think want to just fix the door.. does it mean i can put sealent and molding? or how do I just fix this without opening up everything..

 

Your house, you can do it however you want to. But even if you make it look pretty again, you are just going to be trapping water behind the new exterior trim and caulk which will eventually rot the wall even worse as time goes by. (you just won't see it) At some point you are going to need to address it.

As an aside, you first unzip the piece of siding that is about 5-10" above the deck... that gives you access to the nails that hold the piece of siding immediately above the deck.

 

Thank you.

I will try again, but I am not talking about the nails that attaches siding to the osb/wall... looks like they have nailed overlapping sidings with finishing nails too.. I checked at multiple places.

but, even if I find no matel flahing where the deck is attached, what will be the solution besides removing the whole deck? Is there a hope to fix it without a complete removal , flash the ledger, zip and attach deck again?

any other option?

 

If there is no metal flashing over the ledger, you remove the siding, flash the ledger, then put the siding right back on where it used to be.

 

So just siding needs to be removed and not the whole deck (or ledger board)to install flashing?

 

Yes, that's what I've been saying.

 

Over the years I've made 10's of thousands of dollars from these far to common building 101 mistakes.
All this damage could have been prevented for about $20.00 a few min.time.
https://www.decks.com/how-to/28/flas...e-ledger-board
In just my small neighborhood there's 4 homes right now being worked on replacing rim joist.
Two because of no flashing on the rim joist, and another two from someone not waterproofing the wall before building a concrete stoop.
About $5000.00 in repairs that could have all been prevented for less then $50.00 in materials.
Those notched post for the railings are also wrong as well as the post holding the whole thing up if there just attached to the side of the floor joist and not notched would not meet modern codes.

 

Thank you for your help and advise, I had somebody fix the door molding, but had to pay a lot of money

here how it looks now.