How to install curtain rail in this spot.

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Old 05-12-16, 09:36 AM
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How to install curtain rail in this spot.

My wife is going to kill me if I don't get around to hanging the curtains.

My problem is figuring out the best way to do it.

Here is the window.


The problem is that the curtain rail is longer than the window (as it should be) but the space directly above the window has a metal access cover for the shutters.

Here it is with the cover removed

What you might not be able to tell is that even with the cover in place it's not completely flush with the rest of the box, it's recessed a couple mm. That means in order to be level I need some sort of washer or other spacer so the rail will be level. Or is there some better way to do this?

I notice that the rail has a lot of screw holes. Do I need to use them all, that would seem to be very excessive, if not how many? Can I use Parker screws on the cover with a washer to shim the cover level with the wall? What kind of anchor can I use in the plaster or should I not bother and try and get a screw into one of the wooden framingn joists? I think there will only be 1 per side that would overlap the curtain rail.

Also with inner and outer curtains, how far apart should the rails be? And for the sheer curtains, how far from the window?

Thanks!
 
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Old 05-12-16, 09:49 AM
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It would help us if could add a picture of the rail you are trying to install.....
 
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Old 05-12-16, 10:31 AM
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Here are The rails

And here is a slightly better picture of where they need to go

 
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Old 05-12-16, 12:39 PM
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I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at underneath. How deep is the soffit? If you can't screw right into the top, might be easier to mount a 1 x ? to screw into. Don't know what a Parker screw is.
Will these be working traversing rods or just to hang from?
You'll need 2" from the window for sheers and 2" between rods. If they're pinch pleated, you'll also need 2 more inches in front of those. Does she need the sheers being you have shutters? Sheers and all those layers are kind of passť. Just shutters and curtains will give a more modern look.
 
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Old 05-12-16, 05:17 PM
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Underneath? in this picture http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qd.../IMG_2909.JPG?

Its the metal cover and the rest of the soffit (thanks for the vocabulary, wasn't sure what to call it). I can screw into the metal cover, when I said "parker screw" I meant a sheet metal screw (as opposed to a machine screw and some sort of bolt. The issue is I have a couple mm of difference between the level of the cover and the soffit.

The sheers are important for privacy while letting in light (we live in the city on a busy street). They will be working traversing rods.

From the window frame to the lip of the soffit is 6.7in and the lip is 2.3in.
 
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Old 05-12-16, 05:58 PM
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You could fasten to the cover with sheet metal screws as long as the cover is attached securely enough to hold the weight of the curtains. it's not clear from the pictures how the cover is held in place and how strong it is. Also, if the cover is very flimsy material then I would not use sheet metal screws.

Assuming that is ok, then I would just fasten the rails to the cover and not the plaster as long the rail only extends 5-10 CM past the edge of the cover. I was going to suggest skipping washers and using a long thin spacer of some sort so the washers wouldn't be visible from the front, but it looks like it will all be hidden behind the edge of the valance. So washers will be fine. For the shears, I think a screw near each end and then one every 30 cm or so would be plenty. For the curtains you may want to space them closer, say 15 cm or so.

If you attach the rails only to the cover, will you still be able to remove the cover? Or will you have to remove the rails and then the cover? I don't how important it is for you to have easy access to the blind mechanism....

Good luck!
 
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Old 05-12-16, 08:04 PM
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Carbide tipped, thanks for the reply.

This is the cover.



I don't have calipers handy but comparing to several coins and other objects I'd guess it's 19ga possibly 18 or 20. Is that thick enough to use sheet metal screws on?

If I attach the rails I would have to remove them to take out the cover. That is not a problem, as it is not something that needs regular access.

I'm not sure how much weight it can take here are some pictures to give you an idea of how it is attached.

The cover rests on top of this frame to which it is held flush with small sheet metal screws.



The frame appears to be attached to the window frame and the wall here



on the other side you can see little wires which I assume tie it to the support member behind it.


Which appears to extend into the wall


And on the other side seems to be attached via bailing wire to one of the beams.


and the ceiling.




The rail is actually about 20cm wider than the edge of the cover on each side. That seems kind of far to not have any support especially considering that the weight will all be on the ends when the curtains are open.

Here are the ideas that came to mind:

1) screw in to cover, use some sort of plaster anchor at the end.

2) Screw the end of the rail to a short piece of metal, 10 cm or so, and then screw that through the plaster into the next wooden support

3) mount to a piece of angle iron which I would then screw to the metal window frame against the wall. The problem with this idea is that a 2" piece will probably weigh more than the rail and curtains.
 
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Old 05-13-16, 06:58 AM
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I think that is thick enough to use sheet metal screws and sturdy enough to support the rail.

Given that the rail is 20 cm wider, I think you are correct that ends should be supported. If the rail crosses a wood support it would be ideal to screw into that, even if you have to drill a new hole in the rail so it lines up with the wood.

If you can't manage to fasten to the wood, then I'd use what we call here in the states a Molly or a toggle fastener. They require a hole drilled in the plaster. They will allow you to remove and replace the fastener as needed to remove the rails.

Shadeladie's suggestion to use a narrow strip of wood that spans the whole length of the space would be another way to deal with this as it could certainly be fastened into the wood supports, and then the rail simply screwed to it. You'd have to remove the whole deal to get at the shutter cover, but that still might be easier than fussing with all the washers and sheet metals screws. A couple of screws into the wood supports at each end of the wood strip would do the trick.

I should say this advice is based on the assumption that these are not real heavy draperies, but are lighter curtains and sheers.
 
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Old 07-16-16, 08:15 PM
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Trying to close out these threads about finished projects.

I ended up using supports like these:



I secured them to the wall first with 6mm anchors and then after a pullout (probably due to the anchor ending up mostly in the plaster) with 8mm anchors

Which I then tapped for machine screws to secure the rails at the ends and in the middle I used sheet metal screws into the access cover.

It came out pretty well. You can't see the supports or the rail.

 
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Old 07-16-16, 08:19 PM
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Good solution, nice job! Thanks for circling back to let us know.
 
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