I noticed that the floor in my bedroom above the garage got warm in a spot above the dryer duct routing. I was bale to diagnose with a depstech endoscope camera and saw that the duct is disconnected about 28" form the outside after the 45 degree turn. This must be just about the garage door header.
I am looking for some ideas on how to best repair. I was thinking to
possibly pull down the plywood from the bottom the of the overhang and see whether it can be reached.
What is above the duct. Might be easier to pull up flooring, cut an opening, connect duct, reinstall sub floor, reinstall flooring (depending on what it is) vs going from outside which will require some repair to make it look correct.
If it's about 28" in I'd cut a hole in the garage ceiling. Any repair is on the inside where it's less visible and sheetrock is relatively easy to cut open and repair.
When you get in there your dryer duct should be rigid galvanized steel. There should be a couple screws in each joint holding them together. Then apply metal foil tape to the outside to make it completely airtight. Make sure you thoroughly clean the pipe so the tape can stick.
At least using rigid for the elbow will make the 45" degree more sturdy. Know I wonder where the next connection is inside... A bit worried know about cleaning the duct int the future..
Just a quick FYI..... repair the ductwork using metal foil tape only ...... no screws.
On every other duct you would use screws.
That flex must go. That should never had been used there.
Once you have an access point in the garage.... you can also pull off the vent cover and work thru there.
Remove all that flex. You can attach a piece of solid to the vent cover to reach your splice point.
Insert the vent cover with the duct attached to it.
thanks. Unfortunately, I still will have a good amount of flex duct inside the house. Assuming that duct comes in 8ft sections I am assuming there is another duct tape connection somewhere which will make duct cleaning a bit of a gamble.
The inspectors in my area require rigid steel duct with joints secured by screws. There were some dryer fires where they found the duct disconnected. Not everyone uses the best tape and adhesives can fail over time so they want the duct to stay connected. The screws do catch some lint but luckily the dryer duct cleaning brushes are not affected by the protrusions.
I agree, you really cannot clean flexible duct. The brush will likely damage the flex or disconnect it.
Hello, Hope someone can help here. We built a 1200sqft ADU 6 years ago and it has a furnace in it with no a/c. The heater has always cycled on and off and I thought that was normal behavior. If its 65'F, and we set it to 72'F, it would get to around 67, cycle off, then cycle on in a few minutes and eventually it would get to 72.
When we tried to sell the house, the inspector said that was incorrect and it was malfunctioning. It turns out there is an airflow issue. We had an HVAC company come out to look at they said return duct is only 8" and needs to be at least 12". There are 3 supply vents which appear to be 6". Of the 3 vents, 2 are up stairs in the ceilings which is inaccessible and one is downstairs and easy to access. We would use the hvac company but they are charging many thousands.
So I had a contractor friend replace the return duct from 8" to 12". He also replaced the supply duct to be 12". The supply vent in the downstairs is now 12" duct as well, but the two upstairs supply vents are only 6" ducts because they are not accessible. The supply duct is 12" but it was split to 6" duct going upstairs. , so the downstairs duct is 12" but the upstairs ducts are 6" if that makes sense.
After we did these duct changes, it seem to be better but still the furnace cycles on and off after 5-10 minutes.
Do we need to upsize the supply ducts going to the upstairs bedrooms too? I'm not sure how to do that because there is no access to the upstairs ducts other then this starting point.
Also, another thing I noticed is the downstairs vent blasts out tons of heat while the upstairs vents barely push out any heat. It was this way before we made changes to the ducts, and still this way after the changes.
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Anyone with experience venting a range hood through the soffit ? I'd like to move the stove between two 40'' x 40'' windows 44''apart in the front wall of the house. The soffit is 24'' wide . My concern is the smoke, steam, grease etc to go into the attic or stain the soffit or bricks on the wall in windy conditions also icicles in winter.
The kitchen has two exterior walls
Right now the stove vents through a ducted fan installed on the other exterior wall.
Thank you
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