Whirlpool Conquest Refrigerator Warm
#1
Whirlpool Conquest Refrigerator Warm
GD25DI is the model number.
A few days ago, I noticed a strange ticking sound coming from the area directly behind the light switch. Only happened twice that I noticed both on separate days. Freezer section is working beautifully, very cold. Fridge part is at 50 degrees. I replaced the defrost board this morning and have not seen any improvement. How do I force a defrost cycle on this model?
Other observations, are that I feel zero air coming from the vent in the upper back left portion of the fridge compartment. However, I peg at -26 degrees in the freezer directly behind the icemaker.
Also recently changed out the hard start capacitor (last month) but based on the freezer temps, the compressor appears to be working fine.
Thanks as usual guys. Z
A few days ago, I noticed a strange ticking sound coming from the area directly behind the light switch. Only happened twice that I noticed both on separate days. Freezer section is working beautifully, very cold. Fridge part is at 50 degrees. I replaced the defrost board this morning and have not seen any improvement. How do I force a defrost cycle on this model?
Other observations, are that I feel zero air coming from the vent in the upper back left portion of the fridge compartment. However, I peg at -26 degrees in the freezer directly behind the icemaker.
Also recently changed out the hard start capacitor (last month) but based on the freezer temps, the compressor appears to be working fine.
Thanks as usual guys. Z
#2
That sounds like a stuck automatic damper door between the freezer and the fridge. The only problem is the base model uses a manual damper.
You'll need to leave me the full model number.... instead of just the group.
A few other problem items..... is the fan in the freezer running ?
You'll need to hold the door button in to get it to run.
If the fan is running then there is a chance of defrost issue.
If you remove the front kickplate...... look carefully for a tech sheet. It may be taped up under the bottom of the fridge. It should discuss the defrost cycle.
You'll need to leave me the full model number.... instead of just the group.
A few other problem items..... is the fan in the freezer running ?
You'll need to hold the door button in to get it to run.
If the fan is running then there is a chance of defrost issue.
If you remove the front kickplate...... look carefully for a tech sheet. It may be taped up under the bottom of the fridge. It should discuss the defrost cycle.
#3
Here is a link to the applicable parts based on entering the service and wiring sheet reference number. It is correct, even though it says maytag in the link.
https://www.maytag.com/digitalassets...%204398625.pdf
I am starting to get air flow through the damper, it is minimal, but better than zero where it was. New defrost module (part #6 in control section) has been in place for7 hours. Do you think that cycling a 2nd defrost would help speed things up?
Yes, there is a fan running in the freezer.
https://www.maytag.com/digitalassets...%204398625.pdf
I am starting to get air flow through the damper, it is minimal, but better than zero where it was. New defrost module (part #6 in control section) has been in place for7 hours. Do you think that cycling a 2nd defrost would help speed things up?
Yes, there is a fan running in the freezer.
#4
Ok.... so based on that parts diagram... the damper is mechanical.
Did you check and see if it's operating.... opening and closing when you adjust it ?
The thermostat monitors fridge side temps and the damper allows the air thru. If the fan is running, and the damper is open and there isn't much air..... the coil may still be iced up.
If you didn't allow the fridge to unthaw before changing the board then it should defrost more frequently and after several cycles it should be clear.
Did you check and see if it's operating.... opening and closing when you adjust it ?
The thermostat monitors fridge side temps and the damper allows the air thru. If the fan is running, and the damper is open and there isn't much air..... the coil may still be iced up.
If you didn't allow the fridge to unthaw before changing the board then it should defrost more frequently and after several cycles it should be clear.
#5
I did a forced defrost. According to the service sheet, a forced defrost is a 21 minute cycle or until the bi-metal opens. Defrost ran for 10 minutes before the fans and compressor kicked in again. Not sure if a good sign or not. Is the bi-metal located in the fridge or freezer? I'm going to open the damper full and see if I can get the thing to start cooling. Food in the 45 to 50 degree range has me nervous.
#6
The bimetal is the defrost thermostat that is attached to one of the refrigerant lines near the evaporator coil..... or directly to the coil itself.
#35 (defrost stat) is held on to coil or line with clip #34. (#33 is the heater)
#35 (defrost stat) is held on to coil or line with clip #34. (#33 is the heater)
#7
Update
Ran through a couple of forced defrost cycles and we are now starting to get fridge temps in the high 30's low 40's range. So I think I am out of the woods. It is just a long slow slog waiting for temps to catch up on a warm fridge. Will continue to monitor over the next few days and will report observations that are important to the thread for the community.
Pete - Thanks again for your help walking me through uncharted waters.
Ran through a couple of forced defrost cycles and we are now starting to get fridge temps in the high 30's low 40's range. So I think I am out of the woods. It is just a long slow slog waiting for temps to catch up on a warm fridge. Will continue to monitor over the next few days and will report observations that are important to the thread for the community.
Pete - Thanks again for your help walking me through uncharted waters.
#8
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Whirlpool refrigerator not cold
We have a three year old whirlpool gold French door. The freezer wasn't staying cold. Had repair. He had good news, bad news. Whirlpool knows they have an evaporator problem so no cost for parts. But labor $400.00
Took 2.5 hours or so. Now running fine
Anyone else encounter this problem and story?
Took 2.5 hours or so. Now running fine
Anyone else encounter this problem and story?