Dishwasher spraying weakly


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Old 06-26-16, 09:20 AM
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Dishwasher spraying weakly

Hi all, I have a GE GSD2000F01WH.

Water just dribbles out from the jets, so I assume there is some sort of supply or flow issue. This seems to have happened suddenly (worked fine until the last use), then again maybe it has been building up over time.

I cleared the screen, cup under the screen, checked drains, disposal unit, etc - all seem fine. I'm thinking it's a water supply or flow issue. I know the water valves can have issues over time.. also there maybe buildup in the lines through to the jets although this seems to have been more of sudden event (worked fine until the last use). We don't have hard water here and the jets on the spinning spray bars look pretty clean.

I used a screwdriver to trip the safety switch to allow me to watch the flow for 3-4 seconds with the door open.

How/what should be my next steps to check?

Thanks guys!
 
  #2  
Old 06-26-16, 09:34 AM
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Many dishwashers recycle water during the wash and it's possible for something to impede the flow even with a filter. As a simple fix, check the spray arms to make certain they aren't clogged.
 
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Old 06-26-16, 09:36 AM
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When you open the door.... is the bottom of the tub full of water ?

Your unit uses a combo wash and drain pump. It's part number is WD26X10013. It's a fairly easy assembly to replace. Not a terribly well built assembly.

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Old 06-28-16, 08:42 PM
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Hi, thanks for the responses guys. Sounds like the first thing to do would be to check the spray jets on the rotating arm thing. Visually they look ok, but how can I check if they are clogged at a non-visible point?... test procedures..

And yes, when running the dishwasher, the bottom section of the tub has water in it, which I think is normal operation, no? The weak flow I'm experiencing is right near the beginning of the cycle when water comes in like from the side of the wall, and I noticed after the cycle is done that there is dishwasher detergent not properly rinsed/mixed with water and also that the dishes are still pretty dirty. These are the reasons why I thought it was an incoming flow issue. Regarding whether my lack of strong flow is coming from the jets being clogged or the wash/drain pump being weak, what would be the best step by step checks I should do?

I have already done a continuity test on the water valve using my multimeter. That checked out ok.

At some point in the next few days I will take a youtube video of the beginning of the cycle and maybe you guys could let me know what is normal also...

Thanks!
 
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Old 06-28-16, 09:53 PM
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The water fill is a timed function. The water just fills the tub.... it doesn't wash the dishes as it enters. After 2-3 minutes the fill valve turns off and the main pump comes on. This is where the wash pressure comes in. After about 5 minutes a flapper is activated on the main pump and the tub drains. After 2 minutes it refills and starts the actual wash cycle.

You can hear the unit draining. When it shifts from drain back to fill.... open the door and verify the tub is empty.

When the tub fills there needs to be enough water to cover the heating element. The water needs to be hot enough to wash the dishes and dissolve the soap.

The spray arms are checked visually. You can see if calcium has the holes blocked off.

The unit must fill the tub with water. It must pump out all the dirty water or it will be reused and the dishes won't get cleaned. It is very possible for the pump to have something in it or the blades could even be worn.
 
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Old 06-29-16, 06:55 AM
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This might be obvious but have you checked the angle stop valve? Remove the supply line from the valve and use a separate supply line to run water into a bucket.
From my experience the hot water angle stop valve is more prone to blockage than the cold.
The blockage can be just sediment or it could be shards of a disintegrating washer have clogged the line.
 
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Old 08-14-16, 10:16 AM
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Update

It appears to be a fill issue.

PJMax thanks for the step by step procedures of what should happen when, so I guess in the first 2-3 minutes I would expect the bottom of the basin to fill up above the heating element.

I have posted a youtube video of what happens in the first 2-3 mins of starting the dishwasher Normal wash cycle.

https://youtu.be/BiD_uemKrJQ





There is a water 'spout' on the left side wall in the dishwasher, as can be seen in the video, but I don't see water coming from there. The majority of the water (and it is barely anything) is coming from the bottom of the vertical jet thing (also can be seen in the video).


Back in June I did test the blue water fill valve with a multimeter to check if I had continuity (and I did) through the valve with the leads disconnected.

This part:
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I just watched a youtube video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv22rpcthy4

and tested for 120V at the leads into the water inlet valve. I have 0v when I backprobe the connector and 0V when I disconnect the same two pronged connector and measure at the front of the connector. So without power there my water inlet valve obv. won't open.

The pump runs and the heating element gets hot, so there is definitely power to part of the dishwasher.

Are there fuses that I can check to see why I don't have voltage here? I left the meter on for about 30 seconds after beginning the Normal wash cycle so I figure that would be plenty of time for the valve to be powered to start filling the basin.

And thanks pjmax for the pic addition
 

Last edited by arc2334; 08-14-16 at 01:07 PM. Reason: update on voltage testing inlet valve
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Old 08-14-16, 11:38 AM
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Your video shows no water in tub and none entering.
You've confirmed the solenoid has continuity.

Next you'll need to check it for 120vac when in operation.


http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 08-14-16, 12:11 PM
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Hi Pete, I updated my post to show the 120V testing results. I removed the float switch from the black plastic holder it resides in and tested continuity. My meter does not have audible continuity but I just switched it to the 20 ohm setting and saw that resistance was like 3 ohms when the circuit is complete

Does 120V flow through that switch and go through into the connector on the inlet valve? The red wire goes from the float switch to the inlet valve so that's what made me think that...

https://youtu.be/w-3LS4RmyOw
 

Last edited by arc2334; 08-14-16 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 08-14-16, 02:15 PM
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Yes... the float switch is in series with the valve. When the float is up there is no water going to the valve.

Just re-read and saw something you posted. You mentioned 3 ohms. That's a little on the high side. Check your meter first by shorting the two leads together. This measures the resistance of the test leads. You would then subtract this value from your measurement.

So if the meter leads shorted read 1 ohm. That 1 ohm gets subtracted from the switch measurement.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 08-14-16 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 08-14-16, 03:59 PM
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Hi Pete, I get 0V at the float switch too...

Are there fuses or something also?

The pump has power...
 
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Old 08-21-16, 01:35 PM
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I'm more used to DC 12V work (automotive) than I am 120V AC so to be sure I'm measuring things right:

I pulled the float switch out carefully from the holder. I left the electrical connector hooked up to the water valve.

I then set my meter to 200VAC range, touched one probe to the 'power in' wire at the connector on the valve (red wire), and touched the other probe to the wire that goes from the control dial to the float switch (touched the probe to the connection at the float switch - pink wire).
While pressing the the float switch to complete the circuit, I measure voltage on the Normal cycle. No power for ~4 minutes.

I tried to connect the leads on my meter based on this:

"Thanks for the suggestions using the multimeter. I do have a good one, but honestly I'm not sure that I'd recognize the correct wires to test.
Is not difficult. There should be a wire that runs from the float over to the water valve. You want to measure the other two.
Meter lead---wire from control---float switch---wire ---water valve--- meter lead
If no 120
Then remove power from the unit.
Remove the door's inner panel
And check the wires visually and then for continuity. They are color coded and should be easy to trace.
Remember to disconnect one end of the wire when checking it. This ensures you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive ohms setting.

Read more: Replaced water inlet valve, still not working - Appliance Repair Forum
Appliance Repair Forum - Free Service from Appliance Parts Pros


Any thoughts? I'm thinking maybe I should be checking output from the dial timer? With AC voltage testing can I just put one lead on a part that should have 120VAC, and touch the other lead to any metal (grounded?) part on the case of the unit? - similar to what I'd do for checking 12V DC during automotive work...

PS. looking back at the longer of the 2 videos I took and posted, I realize for most of the video I'm not holding the switch in the closed position, but I did test it in the closed position, just not as much on video. I even took out the float switch entirely and connected the two spade connectors, allowing full closed circuit to the valve. Even then, minimal water flowed into the tub.
 

Last edited by arc2334; 08-21-16 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 08-27-16, 09:35 AM
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Hi All, so I ordered a dial timer unit thinking that was the cause of why I had no power going to the valve at first to allow water to fill the bottom basin. It didn't fix it.

I then just let the dishwasher run through a cycle and voltage tested connectors to see what had power and what doesn't. During various points in the cycle I actually heard water flowing through (and 120V confirmed) the water valve getting power. What's weird is that I figured the valve would need to get power early in the cycle to fill the tub, I didn't see any filling of the tub (I opened the machine a few times in the early stages of the wash).

Now I'm really curious as to what is supposed to happen at what time. When I opened the front door to access the timer I think there should have been a service paper of some sort in there. I looked but couldn't find one (like with schematics, etc) - does anyone have access to this for my model number? GSD2000F01WH


Check out the latest video posts and it should show what is happening at various stages. I also have a leak under the unit.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt4...view=0&sort=dd

Even if I end up replacing the unit, I don't mind spending the time to figure this one out, it has really piqued my curiousity.

Thanks again for any help you guys can provide! It means a lot to get help with this stuff!
 
 

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