Washing machine not spinning after clutch replacement

Our dryer was getting increasingly noisier and after posting the problem here, several suggested replacing the clutch. I replaced the clutch and belt yesterday (making sure the belt was tight). I even moved the belt by hand and it all felt solid.

We ran a small load yesterday and heard it spinning (and unfortunately, it's still loud

So, this morning we ran a small load of sheets and after it was done, I pulled them out and they were still pretty wet. I took them out and moved the dial to the spin cycle and turned it on. I could hear something moving from underneath, but the tub wasn't spinning now.

Any ideas what could have happened? When I loosened the nuts on the motor, I had marked where they were and got it as close to those marks as I could (I think the new belt prevented me from getting back to exactly where they were). I made sure I held the motor in place as I tightened the nuts. The belt was as tight as it could be.

 

Post make and model # What are we talking about you have said washer and dryer?????????? Need to know which. What clutch? What kind of noise, Is the noise when in spin?

 

Didn't realize I had done that

This is the washing machine. The clutch attaches to the motor. The belt wraps around the clutch and pulley.

I would describe the noise as what you might hear when a bearing going out. It's pretty loud (even with the utility room door closed). I only hear this during the spin cycle.

GE model WWSR3090TAWW

Thanks,

Andy

 

Transmission and possible tub bearing but I have never seen one of those bearings go bad. Bearing is just a medal sleeve that goes through tub. What clutch did you change??? The one on bottom of motor.

 

That would be correct. When I took the old one off, it turned fine and had plenty of what I'd call "brake pad" on it. But since I had the new one, I put it on. When I grabbed the belt and turned it, it would only turn easily in one direction, so I feel confident I had it installed properly (and I did make sure I positioned it so that it slid over the two "pins" sticking out of the shaft.

Any ideas why the tub is not spinning now?

 

Did you close the lid. Could be a bad lid switch.

 

I went on Youtube and found one post that talked about the hose that runs from the tub to the knob that sets the size of the load. They said if it gets clogged in can cause this problem. I took it off and shook it and blew on it with nothing coming out. Tried spin cycle with it off and on with no change.

The next video said to unplug from the outlet for a minute, plug back in, then open and close the lid six times. This was some type of reset mechanism in case the washing machine "shutdown" because of some problem it detected. No change.

I then decided to pull the big connector attached to the motor. I fist unplugged form the outlet, pulled this connector and put it back on, then plugged the washing machine back in. Now it works! I don't know if that really did it or if it was something else, but it's spinning now (and still loud as Hell lol).


Thanks for trying to help.

 

Was a loose connection at motor, You must of bumped it when working on clutch. The reset works on later models than you have. Is there a puddle in back left corner under the tube that comes down?

 

No puddle at all. Didn't see any water when I replaced the clutch either.

 

Sounds like bearings going bad in transmission, Never have seen rebuild parts for it. Usually a replacement. A lot of time when transmission goes bad there will be a puddle in back. That happens when brake goes bad.

 

Thanks for the info pugsl. We sat down today and started reading reviews of new washing machines and found that (1) nearly all of the new machines are high-efficiency. Many people said they don't sense the weight of the clothes properly, hence there's never enough water, (2) they don't really get rid of all the soap in the clothes, and (3) find an old washing machines and rebuild it lol

So, that's exactly what I'm doing. I decided while I have it tore apart, I'm going to replace the following:

transmission
inlet valve
pump hose
pressure switch hose

That's about $250. Plus, I need a special wrench (a tub nut wrench) to get this one nut off. So, all told, about $300.

I'm not a huge fan of all this new technology they're throwing into washers, dryers and refrigerators these days. I just feel it's just another thing that can fail and it's costlier to repair. I compare it to trying to work on today's modern engines vs. an old straight V6.

I'll re-post later once it's all done and let everyone know if that finally fixed the loud noise.

Andy

 

Your GE washer is the last one I would rebuild. Basket most times are extremely hard to get out. Find a Whirlpool or Kenmore top loader. A lot of times you can find them on cratgslist. Just looked at our listing and saw many for less that your rebuild. They are much easier to work on and we can walk you through any repairs. I would look under any washer to see it there is a oil leak. Post any model # you look at and I can tell you if I would buy.

 

pugsl,

The company I bought this from had a video on how to do this. It's not that difficult for this model. Just a bit time consuming. I think it'll be fine. I'd rather sink the money into what I have (and what I know) than to take a chance on something else, but I appreciate the suggestion. I'll let everyone knows how this turns out.

Thanks,

Andy

 

I have replaced a bunch of yours. If you run into problems let us know. Video's usually are on new clean machines.

 

Thanks pugsl. I've had this 19 years. Guess it's hard to let go knowing how unreliable the new machine machines are these days. I'll update once I have it rebuilt.