GE dishwasher draining issues.
#1
11-27-16, 07:59 PM
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GE dishwasher draining issues.
Hello,
I have a GDT720SSFSS dishwasher. I've noticed sometimes its not fully draining water from the basin. Cycle seems to finish but there is some water left in the bottom every now and then. I've cleaned the filter.
I had the drain hose on the bottom of the dishwasher bust the other week which i replaced. Could the drainage issue be related to the new drain hose? Or did the draining issue cause the old hose to bust? I can't recall it doing it before the hose.
I have a GDT720SSFSS dishwasher. I've noticed sometimes its not fully draining water from the basin. Cycle seems to finish but there is some water left in the bottom every now and then. I've cleaned the filter.
I had the drain hose on the bottom of the dishwasher bust the other week which i replaced. Could the drainage issue be related to the new drain hose? Or did the draining issue cause the old hose to bust? I can't recall it doing it before the hose.
#4
11-27-16, 08:54 PM
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/gcdpgd57hm...WPPro.jpg?dl=0
yes its been working fine for over a year now...
yes its been working fine for over a year now...
Last edited by PJmax; 11-28-16 at 03:24 PM. Reason: added pic from link
#6
11-28-16, 08:14 AM
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I can't see where the drain hose enters the sink base cabinet at the right.
It needs to be as low as possible, in the right back corner. If it's higher, remove the hose and drill a new hole.
What you want is for the hose to be as low as possible and then go up to make a loop.
I deal with this a lot and here's a standard answer from one manufacturer:
It needs to be as low as possible, in the right back corner. If it's higher, remove the hose and drill a new hole.
What you want is for the hose to be as low as possible and then go up to make a loop.
I deal with this a lot and here's a standard answer from one manufacturer:
In testing our dishwashers, we have found that the additional high loop in the back of the dishwasher is required for proper draining of the water. We have seen when this piece is not applied that over time the consumer will have issues with the water backing up and causing issues with proper drainage and water pooling in a particular area.
#7
11-28-16, 03:13 PM
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https://db.tt/rEqJU8aR
It is as u can see.
Ran it again with a full load and a little bit of water is in the bottom again. Less than before. Bit up to the top of my nail bed on my pointing finger or so
I have to pull it out again. And look at the hose that was replaced maybe.
It is as u can see.
Ran it again with a full load and a little bit of water is in the bottom again. Less than before. Bit up to the top of my nail bed on my pointing finger or so
I have to pull it out again. And look at the hose that was replaced maybe.
Last edited by PJmax; 11-28-16 at 03:27 PM. Reason: added pic from link
#8
11-28-16, 03:25 PM
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The hole location is correct 
Pull out the DW and adjust the hose to where there's no excess underneath.
Your hose looks short inside the cabinet, you should be able to make a higher loop. A standard drain hose is about 6'
Pull out the DW and adjust the hose to where there's no excess underneath.
Your hose looks short inside the cabinet, you should be able to make a higher loop. A standard drain hose is about 6'
#9
11-28-16, 03:29 PM
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That is not high enough. The drain line comes with extra length so that it can go all the way up to the countertop and then down. If your hose is short.... it may have been cut.
That high loop is part of a trap and it's what helps the water to drain completely.
That high loop is part of a trap and it's what helps the water to drain completely.
#10
12-07-16, 12:48 PM
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So just to update. I pulled more hose through and raised the loop a bit higher and it seems to be ok. There isn't a whole lot of slack left So I bet when it got pulled out to fix the leak it made the loop smaller which equaled the draining issue.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#11
12-15-16, 05:16 PM
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Aaaaaaand it seems to be doing it again. Could it be anything else? I don't have any more slack in the hose to go any higher. It's probably a few inches short of the bottom of the counter.
#12
12-15-16, 06:08 PM
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The only other thing is where the hose ties into the drain, your horizontal connection is not standard.
A dishwasher normally drains up to an air gap and then down to the garbage disposal inlet or a branch tailpiece.
Here's a link to a branch tailpiece:
Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 8-3/4 in. Plastic Branch Tailpiece-C9819 - The Home Depot
IMO the best way to prevent backup is to add an air gap (this is also code in CA and every manufacturers recommendation).
The branch should help though in ensuring the hose is empty after draining and no water is backing into it.
I already posted a quote on the issue, it was from Viking. Here's one from Kenmore and I think it explains it better.
A dishwasher normally drains up to an air gap and then down to the garbage disposal inlet or a branch tailpiece.
Here's a link to a branch tailpiece:
Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 8-3/4 in. Plastic Branch Tailpiece-C9819 - The Home Depot
IMO the best way to prevent backup is to add an air gap (this is also code in CA and every manufacturers recommendation).
The branch should help though in ensuring the hose is empty after draining and no water is backing into it.
I already posted a quote on the issue, it was from Viking. Here's one from Kenmore and I think it explains it better.
Kenmore: The high loop or air gap must be used to prevent potential backflowcontamination of the dishwasher. Local plumbing codes generally dictate the requirements in your area. Section 807.4 of the Uniform Plumbing Code states: “No domestic dishwashing machine shall be directly connected to a drainage system or food waste disposer without the use of an approved dishwasher airgap fitting on the discharge side of the dishwashing machine. Listed airgaps shall be installed with the flood level (FL) marking at or above the flood level of the sink or drainboard, whichever is higher, or separately trapped with the airbreak located on the stand pipe."
#13
12-15-16, 07:12 PM
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https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.i...000729921.html
That connection was the one in the kit I used. I got quartz counter tops now so I'd prefer to not drill a hole in them for the air gap... I don't even know how I'd go about that.
Plus this was working fine for 2 years now.. I find it hard to believe that all of a sudden now it needs an air gap.
That connection was the one in the kit I used. I got quartz counter tops now so I'd prefer to not drill a hole in them for the air gap... I don't even know how I'd go about that.
Plus this was working fine for 2 years now.. I find it hard to believe that all of a sudden now it needs an air gap.
#14
12-15-16, 07:48 PM
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The kit you linked to looks fine except for the drain connection.
I save these quotes because customers don't want me to drill through a $15,000 counter (or a 3K), but it must be done in California whether they like it or not. I haven't got a call back on a DW install.
A professional should bore the hole in stone.
If you don't want to bore a hole, try this:
Change the right side tailpiece to a branch tailpiece, it looks like there's enough height. Plug the existing branch temporarily.
I save these quotes because customers don't want me to drill through a $15,000 counter (or a 3K), but it must be done in California whether they like it or not. I haven't got a call back on a DW install.
A professional should bore the hole in stone.
If you don't want to bore a hole, try this:
Change the right side tailpiece to a branch tailpiece, it looks like there's enough height. Plug the existing branch temporarily.
#15
12-16-16, 06:34 PM
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So I was replacing the tailpiece and I noticed that despite the water flowing well there was quiet a bit of junk in the pipe.
Then while removing it a piece the cracked.. So I've removed everything cleaned it out and installed the new tailpiece...
Running it now so hopefully that does it.
Then while removing it a piece the cracked.. So I've removed everything cleaned it out and installed the new tailpiece...
Running it now so hopefully that does it.
