GE washing machine not spinning.


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Old 02-15-17, 03:44 PM
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GE washing machine not spinning.

I'm trying my best to keep old Bessie running. I bought this back in 1999 and it's served me well.

GE model WWSR3090TAWW

The problem I'm having now is the tub is not spinning. This happened about a month ago and I found a Youtube video where this guy pulled off what looked like a vacuum tube from a small plastic box attached to the outer part of the tub. I tried that trick and it worked (and worked up until today).

I just popped the front of the unit off, pulled off the "vacuum tube" and no luck (I did push a screw driver down on the lever on the top of the machine to activate the spinning when the lid is up. That worked last time). Now I get nothing. I can hear it trying to spin, but no go. I even tried blowing compressed air up into that line in case it was clogged but no luck.

Anyone have any other ideas about this? I have a new transmission and some other parts a while ago but haven't had the time to tear this puppy apart. Could it be a failed transmission now?
 
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Old 02-15-17, 04:08 PM
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If it doesn't agitate or spin, first thing I'd check would be the belt. Then the clutch.
 
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Old 02-15-17, 04:13 PM
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The tube you are talking about goes to the pressure switch. It controls water level. Do you have a slot for lid switch? Most GE are a magnetic switch. Where is the noise coming from> motor or something else?
 
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Old 02-15-17, 06:28 PM
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Just had my wife help me. I had the front panel off and had her use a screwdriver to activate the washing machine (ours is not magnetic. If the lid is up, you have to use a screwdriver to push down in this one areas to turn on the switch).

What I saw is the small pulley turn maybe 1/4 turn then stop. I could hear the motor wanting to turn, but it just wouldn't turn. The belt looks fine. Does
that help solve the mystery?
 

Last edited by hikerguy; 02-15-17 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 02-16-17, 02:40 AM
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Take the belt off and see if motor runs, if it does transmission is bad. Not a common problem with that transmission. Transmission is a pretty big job on that washer. Washer will run with front panel off. You can close lid.
 
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Old 02-16-17, 02:49 PM
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I was afraid of that. I'll give that a go and see what happens. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 02-17-17, 05:56 PM
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So, I was looking at some videos on Youtube that led me to unplug the washer and move the belt and see if it moved freely. I did this a couple of times, plugged it back in, and the frickin' tub is spinning now lol

So, what, if anything, does this tell me???? I haven't washed a load of clothes yet, but will tomorrow. I'm not understanding what's going on now.
 
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Old 02-18-17, 05:03 AM
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In many years of working on washers that is a new one on me. Sounds like transmission is going bad. I would use till it dies. That machine not worth fixing if transmission bad. Here is video of replacement, rememer this is on a clean machine, old much harder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iY9CPrmLq-k
Here is a page of transmissions, Best I could find was around 180$. Read be afraid, I agree with that..
https://www.google.com/search?q=wh38...utf-8&oe=utf-8
 
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Old 02-18-17, 06:29 AM
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I have a newer model GE washer. The part that is in the same location is called the mode shifter on mine but after watching the posted youtube video the process is the same. As the other poster said working on an older machine (mine is only 6 ears old) is a real pain due to rust and corrosion. I got a spanner wrench but couldn't budge the nut....I wound up cutting it off with an oscillating multi tool. I spent a lot of time wire brushing the soap scum out too. If you decide to do it you may encounter some other worn parts. I finally went onto Just Ask and for $37 I got an answer from a tech who, based on symptoms and testing results, told me which part to get....I've ordered. If the part does not solve the problem Just Ask will refund my $37.
 
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Old 02-18-17, 06:41 AM
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Top 3 causes of the problem:
1. Lid Switch. You can test for continuity
2. Belt
3. Clutch
 
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Old 02-18-17, 07:33 AM
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I meant Just Answer.....not Just Ask.
 
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Old 02-18-17, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for those links Pugsl.
Thanks for the tips Jimmiem.

So, it has failed again. I had my wife turn on the machine and stick a screwdriver in the slot to activate the switch. I could see the clip (that holds the clutch on) spinning, and I could also see the insides of the clutch spinning. I wouldn't think the inside of the clutch should spin, should it? I would think it would have to spin in order to move the belt. I replaced that clutch about 6 months ago. Does that help solve the problem?
 
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Old 02-18-17, 08:22 AM
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Yes that helps. Center of clutch spinning and not turning pulley sounds like clutch failure. Repaired washers for many years and don't remember ever replacing a GE clutch.could of done it but don't remember it. Very rare, do you have a warranty for clutch?
 
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Old 02-18-17, 10:06 AM
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I bought that clutch several months ago. At that time, I actually went through about 3-4 clutches because everyone I received had rust on them. I tried three suppliers and they all had the same issue. I figured the same source must be supplying the clutch to everyone. I simply could not get one without rust. I have my old one though. I had originally replaced it because our washing machine was so noisy, but replacing it didn't fix the problem. I think I'll throw the old one back on and see what happens.
 
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Old 02-19-17, 10:05 AM
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I just totaled the replacement parts I bought and it's at $315. I can buy a new dryer for around $400, so I think it's time to let Bessie go. Thanks for all the advice on this one.

The place I bought the parts from has a 365 return policy, so I'm only out the cost of shipping.

Thanks,


Andy
 
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Old 02-19-17, 11:20 AM
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Good choice I personally dislike that washer.
 
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Old 02-19-17, 11:42 AM
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pugsl, what brand would you recommend? I'm wanting to stick with the "old style" washing machines (top load / mechanical buttons) so at least I have a shot at fixing it when it breaks. Any opinions?
 
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Old 02-19-17, 12:53 PM
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Sorry to say all the new machines are not DYI friendly. It you are looking for a good machine that is DYI friendly look for a Whirlpool or Kenmore used that do not have a lid lock on them. If you do look for a used one look under it about 6 inches up on sides. If a streak of oil it will need a gearcase rebuild. Not hard but something to look for.
All machines that lock are HE type and computer controlled.
NEW I like LG and Sansung machines but they are not cheap.
Roper has a basic washer with few controls but still with new technology. It is a Whirlpool made machine.
 
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Old 02-19-17, 01:17 PM
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Well, I know why it wasn't spinning now. As you can see, a part of the clutch broke off. I put the old one back on and it's working now. We're still going to plan on buying a new one by this weekend. She's on her last leg

Thanks for the info pugsl. I don't really want to buy used and really don't want a more "modern" washer (like the front load HE machines). Can you recommend one that's top load and isn't too computerized?
 
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Old 02-19-17, 02:54 PM
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Sorry the EPA got involved a few years ago and all new washers are HE type and low water levels, These are the ones made by Whirlpool and probably work the best Cheapest usually are Ropers, than Kenmore and Whirlpool. They all work different than you are used to but clean clothes well. These are the easier of the new type to work on.
 
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Old 02-20-17, 06:38 AM
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You're not making my life easy pugsl lol Now I'm waffling lol I've read so many postings (for the HE washers) of people saying not only does the wash cycle take forever to run, it also doesn't fill the tub with enough water. Now I have to give this more though.

Thanks pugsl!
 
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Old 02-20-17, 07:28 AM
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Do not worry about low water level. It cleans clothes well and saves a lot of money on water. 6 gallons per cycle agonist 25 per cycle. They work well but different and not to DYI friendly. There are tech sheets on line to help tho.
 
 

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