Troubleshooting an Artic Air Freezer
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Troubleshooting an Artic Air Freezer
Hi everyone,
I'm having an issue with an Artic Air F22CWF3. I bought it used. Upon inspection it seemed like everything was working fine (fans, lights, etc) except that the compressor wouldn't kick on. I thought it may be the relay, so for $20, I took it home.
After looking at it, the thermal overload was blown, so I replaced that along with the condensor fan, capacitor and SSR.
I plugged it in to a GFCI outlet and as soon as I tried to turn it on, the gfci tripped. I unplugged it and put in back in and it instantly tripped again. So I had a read through the manual and noticed that it says not to use a GFCI. I went ahead and connected it to a outlet reading 120V with my MM. Once I tried to turn it on, the outlet went dead, but didn't trip the breaker. I checked the outlet with my MM and it now reads 12V.
Anyway, back to topic. I checked the resistance of the compressor. It's a Tecumseh TPA1413YXA
Specs (per their website)
Start: 3.95 ohms
Run: 1.77 ohms
My results with my Fluke MM
Start: 4.3 ohms
Run: 2.1 ohms
At this point it seems like the only thing else that I haven't replaced is the compressor, but from the results above it seems to be close to spec. I can't really justify the $300+ for the compressor - plus installation. Any thoughts or ideas before I set this out on the curb for recycling?
Thanks,
CptMidway.
I'm having an issue with an Artic Air F22CWF3. I bought it used. Upon inspection it seemed like everything was working fine (fans, lights, etc) except that the compressor wouldn't kick on. I thought it may be the relay, so for $20, I took it home.
After looking at it, the thermal overload was blown, so I replaced that along with the condensor fan, capacitor and SSR.
I plugged it in to a GFCI outlet and as soon as I tried to turn it on, the gfci tripped. I unplugged it and put in back in and it instantly tripped again. So I had a read through the manual and noticed that it says not to use a GFCI. I went ahead and connected it to a outlet reading 120V with my MM. Once I tried to turn it on, the outlet went dead, but didn't trip the breaker. I checked the outlet with my MM and it now reads 12V.
Anyway, back to topic. I checked the resistance of the compressor. It's a Tecumseh TPA1413YXA
Specs (per their website)
Start: 3.95 ohms
Run: 1.77 ohms
My results with my Fluke MM
Start: 4.3 ohms
Run: 2.1 ohms
At this point it seems like the only thing else that I haven't replaced is the compressor, but from the results above it seems to be close to spec. I can't really justify the $300+ for the compressor - plus installation. Any thoughts or ideas before I set this out on the curb for recycling?
Thanks,
CptMidway.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
What you are looking for is a short to ground. In ohms/continuity mode....
Check from small prong of power plug to metal frame.
Check from the large prong of the power plug to the metal frame.
You should see no continuity from either prong to the metal frame.
What you are looking for is a short to ground. In ohms/continuity mode....
Check from small prong of power plug to metal frame.
Check from the large prong of the power plug to the metal frame.
You should see no continuity from either prong to the metal frame.
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Thank you PJ! I'll check that out tomorrow and report back the findings.
EDIT: I couldn't wait, so went out to test it out. One of the hot/neutral is showing continuity when I ground it to the frame.
CptMidway
EDIT: I couldn't wait, so went out to test it out. One of the hot/neutral is showing continuity when I ground it to the frame.
CptMidway
Last edited by CptMidway; 06-20-17 at 10:27 PM.
#4
The next step would be to disconnect the compressor wiring to see if that's what is causing the short.
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It's a compressor to ground.
I don't know how I missed that. I thought I had already checked it.
Did a continuity test starting from the plug. With the relay disconnected, from the plug to the relay was fine (no continuity). Once I plugged it in, boom - continuity.
Thanks for your help on this PJ.

Did a continuity test starting from the plug. With the relay disconnected, from the plug to the relay was fine (no continuity). Once I plugged it in, boom - continuity.
Thanks for your help on this PJ.
#7
I was at a friends house today. His Traulsen freezer tripped the breaker. After taking the overload and start relay out.... he had the same problem. Shorted winding to ground. Basically requires the compressor to be changed.
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Damn, sorry to hear about your buddy's freezer crapping out. I guess it's time to put it out to the curb. For the hell of it I looked up replacement compressors, ~$300....not including installation. Ouch.
#10
You need to find someone certified in refrigerant handling as you need to remove the refrigerant and then recharge the system.
Hard to give a price as it's mostly labor.
Hard to give a price as it's mostly labor.