GE Ceramic Stove-top; large crack


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Old 01-19-19, 09:11 PM
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Question GE Ceramic Stove-top; large crack

Hello,

I have a 2 burner GE Ceramic Stovetop. 2 weeks ago I caused a 1/2" long crack in a corner. Recently it abruptly spread into a diagonal crack from one corner to the other corner. Also, the crack is all the way through the ceramic. The ceramic surface is only about 1/4" thick. The crack goes all the way though. Also, the crack extends through one far side of both burners. About 75% of each burner is away from the crack.

I read that there is a danger of electrical shock if a crack occurs. Is this only if what is being cooked (liquids, etc) spill over? I only cook dry foods, and only re-heat things quickly. Never any liquids. Would this be alright? I can't afford the $400 cost for a new stove-top.
 
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Old 01-19-19, 09:51 PM
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Hello back and welcome to the forums.

I'm not familiar enough with that type of stove to say if it's safe or not.
Can you post the model number for me ?
 
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Old 01-19-19, 10:26 PM
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I'm not familiar enough with that type of stove to say if it's safe or not.
Can you post the model number for me ?
GE JP256BMBB 21" Ceramic Cooktop
Looks like it is around $600.
By the way, the crack is about 1mm in width.
 
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Old 01-19-19, 11:18 PM
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You missed a number in the model number........ JP256BMXBB.

In case you want to replace the top..... Sears parts has the best price at around $300.
searspartsdirect.com/model-number/jp256bm1bb

That top is part # WB62X10060. It's heat tempered glass so it's fairly strong and it's pretty hard to break unless something gets dropped on it like you found out. I don't recommend you cook on it but as long as no liquids are used on top the risk of shock is minimized.
 
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Old 01-20-19, 10:31 AM
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Thanks.

Is there a cement, or filler, that I could seal the crack with?

As for replacing it with the new one that you mentioned, it looks like this is simple and something I could do. I'd first detach the power supply. It's not a plug into an outlet though. It's a hose-like tube that goes into a square metal unit on the wall, with some screws around where it attaches to the square metal unit. Could this be detached by me? Alternatively, I could switch-off the circuit breaker for the stove-top.
 
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Old 01-20-19, 11:12 AM
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Weve had a couple of these and lucky never broken, they are not repairable and agree should not be used, if liquids get inside that could be a big problem!
 
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Old 01-20-19, 11:56 AM
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As Marq mentioned..... they really aren't repairable and that's due to the extremely high heat that glass is subjected to. It should be a DIY replaceable part.
 
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Old 01-20-19, 07:48 PM
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Could you help me with searching for used, or 2nds, of this item that are less expensive than $300? I've been searching, but am wondering if you know of better places to look.

As for what would occur if liquid enters though the crack, could you describe what would occur if, for example, a tablespoon of water entered through the crack? (Currently I'm using only a small steel pot, and have it over only the side 1/2 of the burner, away from the crack. And as I mentioned before I'm not heating any liquids.
 
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Old 01-20-19, 08:52 PM
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Water entering into the crack would get into the heating coil below the glass that is not electrically insulated.

I rarely see used replacement glass for cooktops. I have worked with several appliance reclaimers in the past but for something like a piece of glass it would be very hit or miss.
 
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Old 01-23-19, 12:28 PM
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That top is part # WB62X10060. It's heat tempered glass so it's fairly strong and it's pretty hard to break unless something gets dropped on it like you found out. I don't recommend you cook on it but as long as no liquids are used on top the risk of shock is minimized.
I cracked the corner by to firmly setting a pot down. A 1 inch crack. About a week later, I heard a snap while I had one small burner on, and the crack abruptly spread about 1.5 feet across the entire surface.

Looks like it might be difficult to remove and install a new cooktop. Looks like it is glued onto the bottom mechanism, so I'm not sure how I could re-glue a new one. It's much more expensive to buy an entire unit (glass top, and bottom burners, etc).

About detaching the power cord under the unit. I see a small metal hose attached underneath with a screw. Same for where the metal hose attaches into the wall. Would I unscrew them, and detach them myself? I'm not sure how to do this.
 
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Old 01-23-19, 10:30 PM
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That small metal "hose" is bx or metal clad cable. Sometimes there is a wiring access door in the cooktop that you remove to access the wiring. I can't tell on yours. The other end of that cable should go to an electrical box or box cover. You can take the cover off the box to get to the splice. There is a possibility that that cable is directly from your panel and there is no splice box. In that case it gets removed from the top.

The link below is the exploded view of your unit. Click on the diagram for a large view.
Clickable exploded view diagram

I'd seen this article..... it may help too..... Replacing GE glass panel
 
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Old 01-23-19, 11:58 PM
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That small metal "hose" is bx or metal clad cable. Sometimes there is a wiring access door in the cooktop that you remove to access the wiring. I can't tell on yours. The other end of that cable should go to an electrical box or box cover. You can take the cover off the box to get to the splice. There is a possibility that that cable is directly from your panel and there is no splice box. In that case it gets removed from the top.

The link below is the exploded view of your unit. Click on the diagram for a large view.
Clickable exploded view diagram

I'd seen this article..... it may help too..... Replacing GE glass panel
Thanks very much.

------------------
 
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Old 02-08-19, 02:25 AM
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Question about gluing the ceramic/glass stove-top to the bottom mechanism.

I don't know how I could remove the cracked stove-top. It is firmly glued around the perimeter to the metal base. Would I use a blade and slice it apart? But even in this way, the access to where the stove-top is glued is limited, as it is about 2 inches under the lip of the stove-top, and goes all the way around.

Likewise, if I get a new cook-top, how do I glue it to the metal base.

Most importantly, I assume that the gluing has to be done perfectly, because if I spill liquid on the nearby counter, and the liquid rolls to the edge of the cook-top, then liquid could get under the cook-top and into the electrical mechanism.

I haven't found anything about the gluing matters on any websites.

I can't afford to pay $500-600 for a new complete mechanism (the stove-top and base).
 
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Old 04-01-19, 01:12 AM
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The small burner abruptly flashed (a massive flash) and seems to be burnt out now.
I cleaned around the unit, and likely some dry particles fell into the 1mm crack and on the burner.
I wasn't expecting this to cause such a huge flash of light, and then the burner being ruined. So now I will have to buy an entire unit rather than the $300 top part. The entire unit is $700+, for this small two burner GE 21" glass cooktop.
https://products.geappliances.com/ap...pecs/JP256BMBB
 
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Old 04-01-19, 08:53 PM
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Must it be a radiant top ? If you're on a limited budget you could get a standard electric cooktop.
 
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Old 04-03-19, 11:34 PM
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Question

I have to replace the existing glass unit.

Could you help with finding the least expensive glass radiant cooktop unit?
Cut-out dimensions, the cut-out of the granite, are 16" height x 20" wide.
The depth dimension is irrelevant because the cut-out is a square hole in the granite with no restrictions.
I found this unit for $330
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Summit-Ap...B121/300169929
 
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Old 04-04-19, 12:14 AM
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The mounting hole dimensions look correct. I don't think you're going to find anything much less than that unless you locate an open box or scratch & dent sale at an appliance store.
 
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Old 04-05-19, 10:27 PM
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Thanks.
By the way, the reason the glass cracked is because whoever installed it left a 1.5 millimeter gap between the glass top and the granite surface underneath. Some light pressure was applied in one corner of the glass top, which caused it to give way to the surface below and crack. Only a 1 inch crack. If the glass was flush with the granite, without any gap, it would have never cracked.
The large crack, 2 feet across, occurred abruptly due to the heat. This happened about 2 weeks after the initial 1 inch crack. A 1 inch crack became 2 feet in a split second due to the heat. I heard a "tick" sound, and then saw the massive crack.
 
 

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