I have been having issues with it not running. Tested to door switches - Good. Replaced the timer - pointless because that wasn't the issue.
Tonight I decided to turn the dishwasher on its back to check out the bottom. Plugged it in to test and it started to run?! Tipped that bad boy upright and ran a test cycle, started without issue, but stopped midway through before the rinse cycle. Couldn't get it to turn back on. Flipped it into it's back and it turns on again.
Why would turning it on the side make it run but print it back upright cause it to crap out again?
My current options... Put the old timer back in, return the replacement, buy a new pump. Find out why the pump isn't working when it's upright. Buy a used built-in dishwasher and fit it into the cabinet of this one. (This last option worries me. Will it work?) A brand new portable is outrageously expensive compared to what you can buy for a built-in. I'd love to buy a new built-in and stick it into this cabinet, but that'll have to wait til I have the money to do so.

Model: GSC3500R20WW

If anyone needs any pics, lemme know. Thanks in advance for the help

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Sounds like you have something in the pump that get dislodged when you turn it on side. Could be in pump or pipe to pump.

 

Well, funny you mention that... I decided to be brave and tear apart the pump. I found some build up around the motor shaft but that's about it. Cleaned it all up and put it back together again. Today, I'm going to take. The air compressor and blow out the coils on the motor. I didn't notice any other clogs. It takes in water and drains water just fine u til it randomly stops.

 

UPDATE:
Put the dishwasher back together. Ran a cycle, got about 80% through the wash cycle and stopped (about a 1/2" away from the rinse cycle.
Judging by the water level at the bottom, seems to be where it's been stopping every time. Like it doesn't finish draining. At the same time I hear the timer stops running. Otherwise I could hear it ticking away while it was running.
I turned it on its back again thinking maybe that might jump start it, nope. Won't turn on. Is there an overheating safety Killswitch? Maybe it thinks it's getting too hot and just quits? That's the only reason I could think that it would just stop turning on considering I was able to get it to turn on yesterday after it was on it's back and off for awhile.

 

Yes most motor's have a thermal protect but that does not explain why you had to put the unit on it's back.
They rest once the motor cools down.

Although I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit if it tripped it would not shut off the timer.

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere.
I would start with the line cord and where it attaches to the unit's wiring.

 

I'm thinking putting it on its back was more coincidence than anything else, considering I wasn't able to get it back running today while it was laying on its back. When I replaced the timer and took the pump apart, everything seemed to be making good connection. Nothing looked corroded or loose fitting. The thermal sensor would make sense, but I have no way of knowing and wouldn't know how to test for it. But it's still odd that the timer doesn't run or anything after it decides to shut off. Wouldn't the timer still do it's thing since it's kind of the brain to tell things to start and stop?

This is the site I found info on it.

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/GSC3500R20WW

 

I have to look into it further but it may have something to do with the overfill float. Some just stop the water from filling so that there is no overflow. Some stopped the machine.

There isn't much electronic with that unit. It sure sounds like a door switch issue.

I don't have any sheets on this series. It may pay to spend a few bucks and buy the service manual. It's in the link below. Well worth a ten spot.

Purchase PDF service manual

 

Check wire connections around the power cord. When you tipped it over it may have moved the cord.

 

Door switches were the first thing I checked. Tested both with a multimeter. Both checked out. Both click correctly when closing.

I took apart the float last night in the spirit of checking everything inside for corrosion, seemed to be fine, but honestly, I'm not sure, nor do I know how to test it.

I will take a look at the power cord connection in the back, underneath I know it's all wired good and tight.

Yes, there's not a whole lot to it, which is either good or bad depending on how look at it. I initially viewed it as good cuz less to go wrong but seems like it's also harder to figure out the culprit when something does fail.

 

When checking the power cord..... check the plug too. Could possibly be a broken wire there.

 

Power cord and the connection inside are good and tight. Nothing wiggles. Got it to turn on again and messed with the cord while it ran, stressing the plug and the connection point inside, nothing shorted, never turned off.

But like before, it got to the same point it has been and stopped running. Any other ideas?

 

At what point does it stop? Is it the same place every time it so look at what it is supposed to be doing and look at that part.

 

Sorry for the delayed response. Busy life. It stop at the same spot every time that I noticed. About 80% through the wash cycle before rinse starts. Seems to be draining at the time of it stopping.

 

UPDATE: Still having issues getting it to complete a cycle. Replaced the motor, and one of the doors switches that seemed to be wearing out. It actually turned on, which I couldn't get it to do yesterday after replacing the motor.

​​​​​I'm wondering if I should replace the other door switch or look for something else. This time when it stopped it was about 1/4 through the wash cycle. It drained the water and sounded like it was filling back up then shut off, so I tilted it back and opened it thinking it was full of water and there was the same amount of water that's always in there when it stops. What else could it possibly be?