my fridge had a frozen defrost drain tube and leaked into bottom section. Im hoping it was a simple clog and not a failed or intermittent component. Both compartments are cooling as usual. So I thawed it out and got it flowing correctly. Upon plugging it back in, it went to a (forced test) defrost immediately and it was draining correctly. I let it run over night and took it apart again and the hole and drain was clear.... However, Its been about 36 hours now and it seems ok from a cooling perpective but I have not seen it go to defrost normally since, but of course i may have missed it. I also cant keep taking it apart to see the extent of ice accumulation inside. I believe the heater is good because it measured 29.5 ohm and it appeared to work during the forced defrost. I didnt check the thermostat or control board though. If either the defrost control board or the defrost thermostat were bad, would it still be able to go into a forced defrost cycle as i described?

So I'm replacing bearings and seal on wifey's LG WM2140CW front loader and making sure anything in need of replacement gets replaced while it's open. Question: Is there a test for the drum shocks and/or how do you know if they're bad? They're not exactly like auto shocks. The beast is 10 years old, so they don't owe me anything, but I don't want to just replace them if they are still functional. :coffee: