Crosley dryer heating element


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Old 01-01-20, 12:15 PM
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Crosley dryer heating element

I have a Crosley dryer model TEDS748JQ1. I am trying to replace the heating element which I got from the appliance store.. I watched two YouTube videos which showed the access to the element thru the front by removing the front cover and tilting the top cover back. However, there is nothing inside I can see that even resembles the part I got.
There is the pulley motor and wires in the bottom right corner of the dryer under the drum. But nothing else looking like the part which is a rectangular flat piece with coils inside of it.. There is nothing inside the dryer housing except the pulley set up ?
Where is the heating element and access point now that I have the whole front and top of the dryer apart lol ?
Thanks very much !
 
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Old 01-01-20, 01:50 PM
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I am not finding that model number. Please double check it.
 
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Old 01-01-20, 02:13 PM
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Old 01-01-20, 03:36 PM
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If it is the dryer I think take the back off and heater is on bottom right. Are you sure it is the heating element, A lot of times it is the upper thermostat. or if does not run the thermal fuse.
 
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Old 01-02-20, 06:31 AM
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Element is in.

Ok I found and replaced to element.. BUT....no warm air coming out, .It only had a couple connections and the thermostat seemed to go back in easily and connected to one plug on the element. The other wire onto the remaining plug.( just hope I didn't get the connections switched or something)
So, what is the next step ?
I only replaced the element because that'd what the Crosley repair said that is the first place to look so.....so much for that.
Thanks so much!
 
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Old 01-02-20, 06:56 AM
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If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

First thing to check is the power. Check at the terminal strip in the unit.
Black to white and red to white should be 120 volts, black to tread should be 240 volts.
It is the 240 that runs the heater.
Be very careful when doing this as you are messing with 240 volts which is lethal

If OK unplug the unit and check:
The heater you just installed. they are usually in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Then check the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cutoff on the heater, both should be 0 ohms.
Then the thermostat on the blower. The two outside connectors should be 0 ohms.
 
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Old 01-02-20, 04:05 PM
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First thing I would check is for 0 ohms across the hi limit thermostat it is the top one on heater case. Wiring thermostats either way will not hurt. but wires usually will fall in to place. Must have 240 volts to get heat. if thermostats are ok than I would check voltage. Be sure to unplug dryer first
 
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Old 01-02-20, 04:16 PM
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Actually I never owned a meter. always been trial and error or the forums. But not sure how to use one and don't want to end up frying my butt. But you are right, having one once I learn to know what I am looking at, I iwll.
 
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Old 01-02-20, 04:26 PM
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For dryer repair I always used just the continuity part except when I checked voltage. Easier to use all you have to do is touch the 2 terminals and listen for the beep. Different people use ohms but I found it just easier.
 
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Old 01-15-20, 08:31 AM
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Testing

After visiting my electrician neighbor, I am ready to purchase the meter. His opinion is that it is the fuse. I will repost with any questions and results ater I buy it today. Thanks so far.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 07:53 AM
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Solved

Apologies for the delay.
Problem is solved. It was thr upper thermo and the cut off fuse; I was able to get my friend to check it with his meter and then I replaced the parts.
Thanks for the suggestions and advice!
 
 

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