Testing Solar Landscape Chargers
#1
03-24-16, 10:51 AM
Testing Solar Landscape Chargers
How do I test solar landscape fixtures to see if the charger is working properly (or at all)?
#2
03-24-16, 11:08 AM
Super Moderator
My unscientific way is to leave them out in the sun for at least an hour or so and either wait till night, or cup my hands over them to create darkness after a couple of hours.
#4
03-24-16, 11:33 AM
Group Moderator
You can connect a DC voltmeter to the battery pack. As the battery charges the voltage will rise.
The more light... the faster it will charge.
The solar cell only generates a few volts.
The more light... the faster it will charge.
The solar cell only generates a few volts.
#5
03-24-16, 06:15 PM
Most landscape light chargers are directly wired to the battery (usually Ni-Cad or Ni-MH) with a diode to keep solar panel from discharge battery when it is not producing electricity.
You can simply connect a multimeter and measure output voltage (at battery terminals) of the solar panel with battery connected under the sun to see if produced voltage is sufficient to charge the battery.
If there is only 1 battery and it is Ni-Cad or Ni-MH, the battery voltage is 1.2V. The solar panel should produce more than 1.2V to charge the battery (About 1.4V is ideal). More light, higher the voltage.
Because there are no charge/discharge controllers, battery life in those lights tends to be short.
If battery voltage drops fast after charging for a while, the battery is bad. If you get reversed voltage or just few mV, the battery is dead.
You can simply connect a multimeter and measure output voltage (at battery terminals) of the solar panel with battery connected under the sun to see if produced voltage is sufficient to charge the battery.
If there is only 1 battery and it is Ni-Cad or Ni-MH, the battery voltage is 1.2V. The solar panel should produce more than 1.2V to charge the battery (About 1.4V is ideal). More light, higher the voltage.
Because there are no charge/discharge controllers, battery life in those lights tends to be short.
If battery voltage drops fast after charging for a while, the battery is bad. If you get reversed voltage or just few mV, the battery is dead.
#6
03-25-16, 05:13 PM
Thanks. That is what I wanted to know. How about just a bit more data?
Can I expect a voltage at the battery connections from the solar panel if the battery is removed?
What light wave length does the panel most react to? Or, what light source most mimics sunlight?
Can I expect a voltage at the battery connections from the solar panel if the battery is removed?
What light wave length does the panel most react to? Or, what light source most mimics sunlight?
#7
03-25-16, 05:31 PM
Group Moderator
If the battery is removed and the cell is in the "sun" you can expect to measure a voltage just higher than the normal battery voltage. The battery loads that voltage down while charging.
Halogen lights mimic the suns energy and wavelength.
Halogen lights mimic the suns energy and wavelength.
#8
03-25-16, 07:05 PM
You will get voltage without battery and it will be higher. However, since you will be measuring voltage without any load, you cannot test how much current your solar panel is able to produce. Bad solar panel will not produce enough current and won't be able to charge the battery.
Exactly what wave length will depend on the panel and what technology they used. I don't have enough knowledge about solar panels to answer this question, but I found this.
Solar Efficiency Limits
Halogen is close to the sun light as PJmax said, but the best test probably is under the sun.
Exactly what wave length will depend on the panel and what technology they used. I don't have enough knowledge about solar panels to answer this question, but I found this.
Solar Efficiency Limits
Halogen is close to the sun light as PJmax said, but the best test probably is under the sun.
