I have an electric box above my kitchen sink for a pendant light (left switch on top), garbage disposal (left switch on bottom), and now I'd like to tie in undercabinet lighting (right switch not yet installed). Here is the new switch I'd like to tie in on the right. It will run to my AC dimmer-compatible transformer for my lights: [ATTACH]66700[/ATTACH] And here are the right and left sides of my existing left switch. [ATTACH]66701[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]66702[/ATTACH] If I tie in my transformer directly to the left side of the existing switch, and the neutral to the other whites, it lights up fine. I'm just not sure how to wire it in using the dimmer. Any help would be much appreciated.

That is my understanding of wiring in a nutshell! I have read many warnings about homeowners doing their own wiring and the danger in it coming from those that think 'oh this is easy, I can do this myself'. So I'm trying to learn everything I can and am thinking...well it does [I][B]seem [/B][/I]fairly simple and straightforward to me so am I in that category? Does the danger come from homeowners not using the proper wire sizes or incorrectly hooking things up? Are there people who really just start wiring without taking the time to learn how to do it properly? So this is my understanding of the [B]simple [/B]part of wiring...electricity comes into the house via power lines to the Service Head and down to the Electric Meter and then to the Service Panel in the form of 2 120 Volt wires (which are always live, even if the main breaker is turned off), each attached to one bus bar, and goes back out through 1 neutral wire attached to the neutral bar. The ground wiring bar is attached to either a grounding rod that is sunk deep into the earth or to the cold water copper piping which also runs deep under ground. Inside the service panel, the breakers are either single or double pole which means they either run off of one bus bar for 120v or 2 bus bars for 240v. Certain appliances, like the Range and Dryer require 240v while most lights and outlets/receptacles can run off of 120v. Wires to run most lights and receptacles normally have 3 connectors, one hot wire that attaches to the breaker, one neutral for the neutral bar and one ground for the ground bar. Wire routes out of the Service Panel through floors and walls to each receptacle/light/appliance and as long as it is properly connected (with the proper supplies) to each receptacle/light/appliance and kept securely in a complete circuit using wire nuts or other connectors, everything flows smoothly and safely. Now this is my understanding of where it starts to get a little more complicated and where I am guessing a lot of people run into trouble for not taking the time to learn. 20 amp breakers require 12/2 wiring while 15 amp breakers can run 14/2. You can run 12/2 wiring off a 15 amp breaker but not 14/2 wiring off a 20 amp breaker. When considering wiring, everything can go down, but not up...meaning you can run a 15 amp receptacle off a 20 amp circuit, but not a 20 amp receptacle off a 15 amp circuit, which is to ensure that the breaker will get tripped when it needs to and wiring doesn't heat up too much to cause a dangerous situation before tripping the breaker. But really, it just is better to run 20 amp breakers with 20 amp wiring to 20 amp receptacles etc. And a little more complicated still... calculating your load. When planning your circuit, you have to calculate and estimate the power draw and ensure that when everything is running, the total draw does not consume more than 80% of the load capacity, with the extra 20% being available to the initial power surge when something is first plugged in or turned on. So if all your receptacles/lights are in use, the total amp draw should not exceed 16 amps on a 20 amp circuit. However, there is a little wiggle room on this as usually not everything is on and in use at the same time. Then you throw in code regulations such as when and where new wiring should be stapled down, how and where holes in studs can be drilled so as not to compromise their integrity, when a metal plate is required to protect wiring, how many 20 amp circuits are required for kitchen and bath and which need to be dedicated to specific appliances or areas etc, GFCI receptacles being required within 3 (or 6?) feet of water such as sinks or if used outdoors and how things are allowed to be grandfathered in versus how it's required to be changed whenever things are upgraded or replaced and that is where things really start getting complicated. BUT...if you use the proper supplies, make sure the power is turned off, and ensure all connections are done in the proper way, the work is all fairly simple...although in no way is routing wire through finished walls ever easy! Did I sum that up pretty accurately? Now who wants to come over and tell me exactly what supplies to buy and give me a step by step guide so I can have a firm plan of action? :D