convert one way switch to three and extend circuit
#1
Member
Thread Starter
convert one way switch to three and extend circuit
We are re-doing a small entrance room to add a new front door.
There is an existing switch, which powered the inside lights and the outside light.
I want to add an extra switch inside the room and make it 3 way but also extend the circuit.
I have 2 main questions:
1/ The 2 switches inside the room will now be on a 2 gang. Are the box space requirements enough to hold all these wires. I think it will be 7 conductors plus 2 switches + ground = 10 conductors of 14/2 wire? 24 cu.in required? Single gang is normally 12.5?
Do the conductors going between the switches count?
2/ How can I get power to the receptacle in the corner on this circuit but bypassing the switches as each run of power goes to the switches first.
Existing layout:
Proposed layout
There is an existing switch, which powered the inside lights and the outside light.
I want to add an extra switch inside the room and make it 3 way but also extend the circuit.
I have 2 main questions:
1/ The 2 switches inside the room will now be on a 2 gang. Are the box space requirements enough to hold all these wires. I think it will be 7 conductors plus 2 switches + ground = 10 conductors of 14/2 wire? 24 cu.in required? Single gang is normally 12.5?
Do the conductors going between the switches count?
2/ How can I get power to the receptacle in the corner on this circuit but bypassing the switches as each run of power goes to the switches first.
Existing layout:
Proposed layout
#4
Member
Thread Starter
The furthest left is a thermostat and a heater.
The 3 switches I guess I didn't draw correctly because they power other lights that aren't in the diagram. The switch I want to change is the 3rd switch ( on the right) of those 3 switches.
By always hot do you mean a switch loop? What I'm trying to show is that I will have 2 c wire nmd from the switch to the porch light.
The 3 switches I guess I didn't draw correctly because they power other lights that aren't in the diagram. The switch I want to change is the 3rd switch ( on the right) of those 3 switches.
By always hot do you mean a switch loop? What I'm trying to show is that I will have 2 c wire nmd from the switch to the porch light.
#5
By always hot do you mean a switch loop?
What I'm trying to show is that I will have 2 c[onductor] wire nmd from the switch to the porch light.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
So, if in the back of the junction box, I connect in parallel to provide individual power to the 2 switches that should be OK? Then pigtails out to the switches?
So, in this example I make a pigtail for the 1 black source on the left switch.
But then how do I pigtail the second 3 way to provide power for the 1 way porch right next to it?
http://i.stack.imgur.com/UiRe2.gif
So, in this example I make a pigtail for the 1 black source on the left switch.
But then how do I pigtail the second 3 way to provide power for the 1 way porch right next to it?
http://i.stack.imgur.com/UiRe2.gif
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 07-31-16 at 06:29 AM.
#7
I connect in parallel to provide individual power to the 2 switches that should be OK? Then pigtails out to the switches?
switch.
But then how do I pigtail the second 3 way to provide power for the 1 way porch right next to it?
But then how do I pigtail the second 3 way to provide power for the 1 way porch right next to it?
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Hmm.
It might be difficult to fit 2 nmd wires through the current concrete hole.
I guess I could also go round the back through the holes for the heater cable, to the receptacle, then to the light, then to the single switch.
It might be difficult to fit 2 nmd wires through the current concrete hole.
I guess I could also go round the back through the holes for the heater cable, to the receptacle, then to the light, then to the single switch.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
If I take a different route and go power source to the light first, will I need 2 nmd cables coming from the porch light to the switch? Or is that when I use a switch loop.
My problem is that the junction box for the porch light is on the outside so wires have to go through concrete first.
My problem is that the junction box for the porch light is on the outside so wires have to go through concrete first.
#10
Or is that when I use a switch loop.
No, the neutral of the 3-way can't be used to satisfy the neutral requirement for the porch light because it wouldn't be in the same cable sheath as the hot for the light.
#11
Member
Thread Starter
So, in the diagram I either have to
- put a 3 wire and a 2 wire from the 3 box to there 2 box OR
- take a 2 cable wire to the receptacle then over the ceiling to the switch then back over the ceiling to the light.
That's a lot of extra cable.
- put a 3 wire and a 2 wire from the 3 box to there 2 box OR
- take a 2 cable wire to the receptacle then over the ceiling to the switch then back over the ceiling to the light.
That's a lot of extra cable.
#12
have to
- put a 3 wire and a 2 wire from the 3 box to there
- put a 3 wire and a 2 wire from the 3 box to there
OR
- take a 2 cable wire to the receptacle then over the ceiling to the switch then back over the ceiling to the light.
- take a 2 cable wire to the receptacle then over the ceiling to the switch then back over the ceiling to the light.
There are alternate methods such as running a 4-conductor cable instead of a 3-conductor cable between the right and left switches or running ENT with 4 wires plus a ground between the switches and a two conductor cable to the porch light.
Last edited by ray2047; 07-31-16 at 09:46 PM.