I'll try to keep this brief. The bathroom I am working on has 2 "branches" of "power in" coming down from a junction box in the attic (both go to the same breaker in the panel). Power 1 goes to an outlet near the sink then goes down to power a box in the hall as well as the hall light. Power 2 will control 3 light switches (main light, vanity light, fan light). [ATTACH]69418[/ATTACH] The problem is that I realized the light above the shower must be GFCI protected. With the way the wiring is ran today, being on 2 branches, I don't believe installing a GFCI in the outlet (power 1) will protect the fan light (power 2) since they are different branches on the same breaker. My solution is to install a GFCI breaker like this in the panel that will protect everything on the bathroom circuit. [url=http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-Qwik-Gard-20-Amp-Single-Pole-GFCI-Circuit-Breaker-QO120GFICP/100013610]Square D QO Qwik-Gard 20 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker-QO120GFICP - The Home Depot[/url] My question is, for electrical code, do I still need an actual GFCI outlet installed in the outlet box by the sink or will this GFCI circuit breaker cover me (assuming I put GFCI protected stickers on the 20 amp outlets)? Thanks!

I added a new circuit with in the garage. Jiet three 20A GFCI outlets. The inspector said I need an AFCI breaker so I pick up the easy plug in neutral type for my panel. What they had in stock was a dual function that included GFCI. It trips instantly. I did some reading and debugging but I'm starting to get confused based on what I have read. I susect my problem is a ground neutral bond. This simply means the ground and neutral are connected, right? But in reading online it appears to be common practice to bond the ground and neutral in the panel and by the service provider outside of the residence. So maybe I am confused in what the AFCI diagnostics mean by bonding ground and neutral. Anything you can say to help me understand the rules and constraints so I can properly debug this problem would be seriously appreciated. I walked into this thinking it was a 5 minute job to swap a standard breaker with an arc fault. After 2.5 hours I really need to know the rules so I can sort this out. Thanks!