Finishing basement: wiring for lights?


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Old 01-05-17, 08:15 PM
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Finishing basement: wiring for lights?

I have no idea if I should use my existing wiring for new lights or just create a new circuit(s). There are junction boxes, which i guess i would have to lose if i drywall ceiling. I also have a junction box that goes out to some lighting/outlets on my deck (junction box with black faceplate).

What's the best way to do this? I plan on installing recessed lighting, many more lights than are currently installed. Thanks in advance. There is a junction box next to a few of the lights. Basically, just wondering how i should do my wiring for now.

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Old 01-05-17, 08:53 PM
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how i should do my wiring for now.
That's a little ambiguous. Are you referring to temporary wiring and lighting ?

Any junction boxes currently in the ceiling would need to be moved. I see a gas valve in the ceiling that would have to be relocated.

There's more than lights you have to plan for. If you're going to sheetrock the ceiling..... and I'd think long and hard about that.... you'd need to bring power over for receptacles too.

Since you're adding "a lot of lights" you'll probably need at least one new lighting circuit.
 
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Old 01-06-17, 09:43 AM
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The last couple basements that I've done I've installed 2 circuits for lighting (using the existing) and 2 for the plugs. Unless you have a HUGE basement that will be more than sufficient.

Note, any special needs like a kitchen or anything special will be in addition.

As far as drywall, that's ok, you don't need to move anything.

I have a few valves (water & gas) in my ceiling. I made a map of their location, and framed behind them so if I ever need to get to them it will be simple to locate and then simple to finish off a close off panel.
 
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Old 01-06-17, 09:50 AM
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I made a map of their location, and framed behind them so if I ever need to get to them it will be simple to locate and then simple to finish off a close off panel.
And how quickly can you do that in an emergency. What if your not there when the emergency occurs?
 
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Old 01-06-17, 10:17 AM
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if I ever need to get to them it will be simple to locate and then simple to finish off a close off panel
That is completely against code. Definitely electrical and more than likely plumbing too.
Junction boxes and things like gas and water valves must be readily accessible.
 
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Old 01-06-17, 10:36 AM
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The snap in access panels are a much better solution and code compliant to allow access.
 
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Old 01-07-17, 06:13 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback everyone, but the main question is should i remove the existing wiring used for the lights shown in the pictures or keep it and try to use it to wire the new recessed lights i'm going to install?

I'm leaning towards taking it all down and using new wire.

FYI i have plenty of open panels in my box to create ample new circuits.
 
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Old 01-07-17, 06:38 PM
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How much load is on the existing circuit. No sense ripping out a serviceable circuit just to replace it.
 
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Old 01-08-17, 07:23 PM
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the circuit is full, probly the 10 limit - depends on if some outside flood lights are on it or not. However, i'm taking down all the lights in my basement that are currently on it.

I'm thinking I will run new wire and connect it to the existing circuit.
 
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Old 01-08-17, 07:39 PM
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should i remove the existing wiring used for the lights shown in the pictures or keep it and try to use it to wire the new recessed lights
Mark where you want your recessed lights. If they end up in same joist run as existing lights, you may be able to reuse existing wiring.

With open ceiling and open wall like in your basement, it might be easier to just run new wiring all the way to the switch or at least to the first junction box (or light) from the switch.
If you will be installing more switches or relocation them, all the way to the breaker may be even better.

That way, you still have lights while installing recessed lights and wiring and only have to use flash light (or extension cord with light) at the switch connection.

You can remove existing wires and sell to make up for extra wires you had to use.



As for the junction boxes on ceiling, if there are only 2 like in your picture, I'd just keep them at same location and install blank cover once drywall is finished. You can paint over blank covers to make it less visible.

For the gas, you can install an access panel, but I'd rather extend gas pipe and install valve upstairs where it should really been installed in the first place. You could use copper tubing if you can get a flaring tool, but for short run black pipe is not that hard.
That corrugated flexible gas connector is not meant for through the floor or wall application.

If there are lots of plumbing or wiring under the joist, you can install 2x2 under each joist to drop the ceiling lower. That way you don't have to move them. Make sure to mount junction boxes to 2x2 as well.
You can also install 2x2 perpendicular to the existing joists. That way you can staple new wiring under the joist without drill holes in to the joists.
Down side of doing this is installing recessed lights may be hard or impossible in joists with small spacing as recessed light's junction box will sit against joists.
 
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Old 01-10-17, 04:07 PM
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awesome info. thank you. I am having a pro come in to move the gas line to the other side and put it against joists by some water pipes also running on the joists. i will use those 2x2s you suggested.
 
 

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