Hello I am new to the site and I am needing some advice. I have installed a 125 amp panel powered by a 30 amp service breaker. When I went to hook the wires up in the panel with 6 spaces for breakers only 2 slots are working. I was wanting to run 4 to 5 15 amp breakers to power the tiny home/RV. I wanted to put a breaker for the bathroom light and 1 plug. In the kitchen another breaker for a light and 2 plugs. A breaker for the water heater and another breaker for the frig and another for a few plugs. I was told about jumping the wires to make both sides of the panel hot but not sure how to do it. Thanks jeremy

 

Post a picture of the panel with the cover off so I can see how it is wired. Almost all residential panels are made to accept dual-voltage (240 / 120 volts) inputs and IF you have only a 120 volt input then it would be normal for half the CB slots to not be energized. It is a simple fix but I need to see the picture.

 

Sorry for the mis spellings but how would I attach a photo.

 

Open the dialogue box, click on the picture frame in the tool bar (third in from the right) select from computer, browse to the picture and then click upload. Note, most cell phones take HUGE pictures and they need to be reduced in size beforehand. Maybe someone else can post the detailed instructions.

 

Welcome to the forums!

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

 

If you only have a 120 feed to the panel you will not be able to run any 240 volt loads.

 

Cant get the pic to upload so I will try to explain what I got going on. I have a 30 amp rv plug on a pole that I am using to power a panel in the tiny house. I used 10-2 wire to go from the 30amp plug to the main lugs in the panel and took the ground from the trailer and the ground from the 10-2 and put them together on the ground lug. When I go to switch the black and white wires power switches on the panel following the black wire. I will continue to try to get the pic uploaded sometime tomorrow morning.

 

What kind of "10-2". 10-2 is usually cable. Cable is not intended for use with a plug. You need 10-3 service cord (black, white, green).

A 30 amp RV receptacle is a 120 volts. White would go to the neutral bar of the tiny home panel. Green goes to the ground bar. If there isn't a ground bar in the tiny house panel you must add one. Neutral bar must be unbonded if it is bonded.

The black wire is pigtailed to both lugs of the panel.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...rt-images.html

 

Please follow Ray's response as it is what I would have written. One thing to remember is that in most cases only ONE wire may be affixed under a terminal lug and in a 125 ampere panel the main lugs will have a minimum wire size, probably #8 or possibly #6 that must be observed. This means that you would need two short pieces of the minimal size wire, one connected each lug and the both these wires connected together with the incoming #10. Maybe a large wire nut or maybe a split-bolt connector well taped.

 

A 30 amp RV receptacle is only 120 volts, as Ray has stated.

 

Thanks for all the help I am getting the info is very helpful.

 

This panel is definitely wired incorrectly, but the exact problem cannot be identified without knowing what the power supply looks like. You only have enough wires (black, white, bare) for a 120V feed; however the panel is wired as if there is a 240V feed. The white wire is incorrectly placed on the hot main lug; it should be on the neutral bar where it looks like the green and bare wires are terminated.

There are also a few workmanship problems like have two wires in the main neutral lug and improper fastening of the orange romex and what I assume is the green grounding electrode conductor. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like there may not be romex box connectors.

 

Here is how it should be wired. Notice the two pigtails on the hot are larger than #10. That is to match minimum size for the lugs.


Neutral bar bonding screw if present must be removed from neutral bar. In this diagram it is the green screw at top right of the neutral bar.

 

Excellent picture, Ray. Thank you for posting.

 

Just a note, Ray's picture is correct, but it still will not support any 240 vo,t loads.

 

I rewired the panel and put a pig tail to both hot lugs on the panel. I ran 8-2 gauge wire and connected it to the 10-2 wire in a junction box. Both sides of the panel are hot and everything is working. I just am need some info to make sure I did it correctly. Thanks for all the advice yall have shared with me.

 

Ray,I don't believe you can use cord for permanent wiring.

 

You cannot have the two wires in the lug like you do on the hots.

The red as a ground is also incorrect.

Your neutral may be undersized since everything is on the same leg of the panel.

The cables need to be secured within 12" of the panel.

Flexible cord cannot be used as a substitute for premise wiring.

 

But he is plugging this into a RV receptacle. I assumed he really meant receptacle. I thought you couldn't put a cord cap on UF cable.

 

I used 8 gauge wire in the panel to go to the hot lugs, ground, and neutral bars. I wired the 8 gauge wire to the 10 gauge wire in a metal electrical box. I have a 30 amp rv plug running the 125 amp breaker panel everything that I hooked up yesterday afternoon works great.

 

But you still have code issues that need to be fixed, whether it works or not.

 

What did you use for power in?

 

The red wire was spliced to a green 8 gauge wire coming from the trailer frame that I hooked to the ground bar. This afternoon I will pig tail the hot wire lugs so that there is only 1 hot wire on each lug. Power in comes from 1 black wire the neutral is the white wire and the red is spliced to the trailer frame along with the bare ground to the ground bar. All the wires for power, neutral, and ground are 8 gauge.

 

That needs to be green.

Did you use cable or cord for power in? Does it plug in at the pole?

 

I used 8 gauge cable to power in from the 10 gauge wire. The tiny home will be contected to 30 amp rv plug that will power the house from the pole.

 

If cable the color of the jacket, black, indicates it is NM-b (AKA Romex). NM-b can't be used. You can use UF. (It has a gray jacket). Did you hard wire or use a plug?

 

ray I used 10 gauge romex from the plug to a metal junction box. From the box I used 8 gauge to tie into the panel.

 

You cannot put a plug (aka cord cap) on romex (aka NM-B cable).

 

Romex can not be used outside. If plugged in you need SOOW cord as shown in the diagram.That was not needed. as you can see in the diagram posted earlier you could have gone straight to the box as shown and used #8 pigtails for hot. The white could have been put in one of the smaller neutral bar holes if needed. Ground could go in any ground bar hole. Posrted in the same reply as the diagram:

 

I will be using a soow cord to tie into the junction box that the 8 gauge cable is spliced to run the panel that will be feed by the 30 amp rv plug. The romex is a temp fix to make sure everything was working correctly it will be removed.

 

Flexible cord cannot be used in place of premise wiring .

 

But it isn't really being used for premises wiring is it? It is being used to plug in a trailer to an RV receptacle. Tiny Homes are really just fancy trailers. They have wheels and a trailer hitch.

So should an inet been used on the trailer (AKA tiny home) or the receptacle removed and it been hard wired? I suspect this is a category not well addressed by code.

 

Missed that this was a tiny home. I suspect they would be wired and treated like an RV.

 

But then I got curious and found this on the net at https://www.curbed.com/2016/9/22/130...ws-regulations. The O/P wrote: So if he puts it on a permanent foundation you are correct. Interesting gray area.