Adding second 220V outlet split from existing 220V.


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Old 07-28-17, 10:52 AM
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Question Adding second 220V outlet split from existing 220V.

I currently have one 220V outlet for my electric stove/range. I'm getting new cabinets/counter, and want separate cooktop and oven. They both use 220V. Since I had stove/range in single 220V, can I tap off of it to make second 220V socket? Or will I need to run new wires to the electrical panel?
 
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Old 07-28-17, 11:55 AM
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First, nominal voltage is 240 and 120, not 220 and 110. That said, make sure both are 240 appliances, not 240/120. Additionally, you would need to verify the total amperage is still within the limits of the breaker.
 
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Old 07-28-17, 02:25 PM
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What size circuit does each need?
 
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Old 07-28-17, 02:46 PM
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You may find this in the install manual:

Before You Make the Electrical Connection:
To properly install your cooktop, you must determine the type of
electrical connection you will be using and follow the instructions
provided for it here.
■ A 3-wire or 4-wire, single phase, 120/240 volt, 60-Hz., AC
only electrical supply is required on a separate, 40-amp
circuit fused on both sides of the line. The model/serial
number rating plate is located on the metal cabinet
underneath the cooktop. See the following illustration.


operative word being "separate".
 
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Old 07-28-17, 02:58 PM
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Found the specs:
Cooktop: 208/240V 30.8A 3 wires (red, black, ground)
Oven: 208/240V 20A 3 or 4 wires (red, black, white/ground)

There's currently one 240V for stove/range. Couldn't I just change out the breaker to 50A, and split from the existing outlet?

I called an electrician, he came by to estimate. Fortunately, where oven and cooktop will be is on the other side of the main panel outside which runs to panel in garage. So, instead of running cable all the way to garage, he can run straight out to outer wall and into the main panel. Conduit and cable being no longer than 6 feet. Estimated $300 for labor and parts.
 

Last edited by itchibahn; 07-28-17 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 07-28-17, 04:48 PM
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There's currently one 240V for stove/range. Couldn't I just change out the breaker to 50A, and split from the existing outlet?
The oven and cooktop manufacturer has a UL listing that requires certain overcurrent requirements. Let's say the oven heating rod shorts out. They do sometimes. There could be more serious issues as it relies on a 50A breaker to clear that fault. It could take out the thermostat, or wiring. Same for the cooktop burners.
 
 

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